Thread: What do you want in a roof rack?

Originally Posted by Witchdoctor

Building a roof rack for the Defender that i intend to market.

What does one require in a good roof rack
* Alloy or Steel
* Low profile
* Full tie rail
* Full flat deck
* Open rail deck
* Tie points in the deck
* Accessories for the rack
* light weight

I would appreciate your feedback!

Cheers
David

Alloy for weight reasons

Low profile is good to minumise wind resistance, but consider making it out of round tube (the front rails at least) to get rid of some wind noise. My last (AR rack whistled like crazy just on the 100km speed limit.

I prefer an open rail. this provides an abundance of tie-down points and can be sheeted if a full flat deck is required.

Having flat vertical surfaces (supports for upper rail) allows awnings, shovel, accesory mounts etc. much easier to fit.

my 0.02c anyway.

mine is steel[easy to weld-modify-repair] approx 1inch above the roof with side rails only[ladders and 16ft canoe would be to high with front and rear rails], 1.2wide sheet of alloy checker plate so i can walk/sit on it

[QUOTE=Witchdoctor;1937921]Building a roof rack for the Defender that i intend to market.

What does one require in a good roof rack
* Alloy or Steel
* Low profile
* Full tie rail
* Full flat deck
* Open rail deck
* Tie points in the deck
* Accessories for the rack
* light weight

I would appreciate your feedback!

1: From experience the roof rack must be able to flex without damaging the gutters.
Aluminium would be better and designed specifically to flex.

2: Low profile for sure, although provisions for high side extensions would be fantastic, or even better would be side extensions that are folded down when not in use.
(For EG: 200mm or so sides and you can flip up and lock in to give 400mm high sides..

3: Will need a tie rail at least on 3 sides.

4: I believe a chunky gauze floor is the only way to go so nothing sits in water.

5: Open rail deck to some degree.

6: I don't feel tie downs on the deck are necessary especially if I could feed ropes through a heavy duty gauze type deck.

7: No accessories really required for the deck I can think of as a must. Although if designed right it would be very handy if boat rollers could be inserted or bolted on the rear, to slide a tinny on or sheets of timber.

8: Obviously light weight is the go and Aluminium is probably the only way..

Low profile, but the ability to have high rails if required. (It is good to be able to park in shopping centres) Think about a underslide to hold camping table. Needs to be strong enough to walk on.

I've got a Jaram tracklander, have a look at those for ideas, bloody strong and robust. The access ladder up the side of the landy makes it a lot more user friendly. Although a ladder on the back would be a better idea.

I've got an original "Brownchurch" expedition rack fitted, it's galvanized steel and has been fitted since new. There has been no damage to the gutters at all.
I find it's perfect and have carried all sorts of things on it

I work out of a 110 wagon daily
I want Ali @3m long
Tradesman style with mesh/grid floor
Rear rollers for boat/ladders
Legs that line up with b and c pillars as well as either side of rear window for strength
Dc

I have a strip of blue boat trailer slide[nylon] across each open end of my rack for sliding the ladder and the canoe on