Thread: So the 90 broke down again, with a mystery!

The filler neck goes into a rubber "tube" which leads to the fuel tank. The rubber tube is held onto the filler neck by a jubilee clip with a torx type head. Check that this jubilee clip is firmly in place and tightened. Check also that the rubber filler tube has not been holed by someone letting a screwdriver slip while tightening it up at the factory.Also worth checking the breather hose for fraying where it meets the valve. Also remove the metal cover on the fuel filter and check that the fuel line is securely in place.Hopefully it will be as simple as one of the above.

Originally Posted by Defender Mike

Leyroy I found this back a bit

I have not water proofed my puma (2012 90) and do not have a 'snorkel' and ive had mine in about 1 mtr of water, moving with a decent bow wave, ive also had it sitting in watter more around 700mm so above the recommended wading depth, only ill efect was yes water int he 'brain box' which causes my rear wiper to move on its own accord untill I pulled the fuse, dried the box out replaced fuse. . no further issues (that was ages ago, Mulgo ex-box is the best solution and I will fit one when I can afford it)

Sounds to me that this could be the problem.
Mike

Thats a possibility, that was Water though not sand?, would that explain the issues if the water got past the filter?, though it would also mean the water has been in there for the better part of 7 months (since It sat in the Water, and the same trip when I was forwarding the bow wave).

I haven't really thought to much into water being the actual cause as the dealer has told me it is the sand.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by spudfan

The filler neck goes into a rubber "tube" which leads to the fuel tank. The rubber tube is held onto the filler neck by a jubilee clip with a torx type head. Check that this jubilee clip is firmly in place and tightened. Check also that the rubber filler tube has not been holed by someone letting a screwdriver slip while tightening it up at the factory.Also worth checking the breather hose for fraying where it meets the valve. Also remove the metal cover on the fuel filter and check that the fuel line is securely in place.Hopefully it will be as simple as one of the above.

Ill check this when I get the car back, however as the dealer has had the tank out and whatever it is they need to do when doing that, will they have had to play around with this and noticed that?
thanks.

Originally Posted by JamesB71

Ill put that on the list of things to look into. Im hoping to get a LOT of kms out of this truck before I have to replace it.

Judging by the amount of really old LRs still running around it might see me out!

The old ones don't do $15,000 worth of damage if you get a bit of water in the fuel.

litte update,

car is back home. .

if you unplug the MAF sensor it drives freely in limp mode (free revs to 2500rpm with no issue, changing gears and all) plug the MAF back in and you cant drive it more than on idle, touch the throttle and it shakes. . .

thoughts?

Didn't they mention a while back the PRV for the fuel rail??? Do a Google search for Duratorq and/or Common Rail diesel engine management; it will reveal just how these creatures operate. Bit of an eye opener as to how dependent they and all other CR diesels are on immaculate fuel and a myriad of sensor values. These type of engines have no place in 4x4 vehicles capable of truly remote area travel IMO.

JC

deleted post, not relevant anymore to current vehicle situation

just in case some get the wrong end of the stick, ALL common rail diesel engines are dependent on correct fuel pressures, immaculate fuel, electronic controls for the turbocharger as well and elaborate anti theft and immobiliser measures. My comment was aimed at the frustrating lack of user serviceable and easily repairable parts contained therin, causing major problems with even minor situations that can arise in an urban environment, let alone central deserts etc....

JC

strange enough I payed a little more attention this morning.

so unplugging the MAF sensor allows the car to drive fine upto 2500-3000rpm (assuming limp mode)
as does unplugging the MAP sensor. . . check engine light is on also, which wasn't on when the car originally went to the dealer (asmmung they may have updated the ecu there?)

any ideas?