New Radiator - Leaking !

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Originally Posted by goingbush

with probe in coolant reservoir .01v engine running

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The tests suggest 0.05mv is the max reading for probe in coolant, so based on that your reading looks good. There is no mention of checking volts off the radiator core directly. I wonder if it makes a difference where in the coolant system you dip the probe? Would a dip in the header tank read differently to a dip nearer the low alarm sensor? If the coolant level sensor plunged 1.25v into the coolant you would would expect higher than 0.01v at the header tank no?

I think I must be a little bit dislektrik :confused:

Agree with your synopsis, mutual confusion :confused:

( test descriptors I found show probe dipped into radiator cap on top of a radiator, do any cars have those nowadays ??)

the next closest best thing on a Td5 being the low coolant alarm tang, (close enough to top of radiator) which also reads .01v (which as you say is good)

basically I guess my readings can be used as a benchmark (good or bad) comparison

I got the radiator back from the radiator repair place. He found leaks through out the center area of the core and said it was quite unusual. It cannot be fixed. The kind of damage indicated corrosion by electrical or coolant reaction.

I know the coolant has been a good 50/50, changed frequently with the same stuff. Nulon Green.

So I'm thinking it was a reaction sped up by my salt water episode earlier in the year. The radiator could have taken in a fair bit of super salty spray and held on to the salt even after a wash. If coupled with some stray current the core could get munched out pretty quickly, perhaps lots of tiny pits/punctures as a result and then the last air purge/bleed caused some pressure build up and pushed out the weak points.

The rad guy suggested a new copper replacement as the motor would have had originally. He said only small fractures on one or two tubes are worth repairing on aluminium cores. For that they have to use a special glue because of the plastic. Most of the time you need to replace the whole radiator.

So for me it will be copper, fixable out bush and less susceptible to stray current. I only hope the cooling is as good, the aluminum one was very effective. The thermo fan switch rarely kicked in and the temp gauge was rock solid on even the hottest day of the year whilst doing tracks in low range.

Get a Redback core, I'll dig the appropriate thread up. ;)


[edit] Here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...astic-one.html

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Originally Posted by rick130

Get a Redback core, I'll dig the appropriate thread up. ;)


[edit] Here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...astic-one.html

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Thanks, I checked out the redback site and it looks like they do custom cores. Can you order up a straight 200tdi replacement or is it a case of measuring up, specifying inlet outlet position/size, plugs position/thread etc. It sounds long and expensive.

I've been quoted 312AUD delivered on a bearmach aluminium rad, and 421AUD on a bearmach copper rad. Both from the UK, half that cost is postage. I'll be over there in a few weeks so I might just smuggle one back in my suitcase.

Your radiator bloke orders the core from Redback and fits it to your tanks.

They're heavy duty copper, designed for earthmoving equipment, etc. and made here.

Oh I see. Thanks, but I don't want to pay more for a rad bloke to glue a redback core to my britpart plastic tanks. I'd rather get a full metal replacement if possible.

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Originally Posted by manic

Oh I see. Thanks, but I don't want to pay more for a rad bloke to glue a redback core to my britpart plastic tanks. I'd rather get a full metal replacement if possible.

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That wouldn't work, they solder the copper core to your original brass tanks ;)

I keep forgetting your ****part rad came with the car from the UK....:(

Urgh... its gone again. Bearmach aluminium core = a little over 2 years.

Same kind of leak from the fins around the bottom corner. The electric fan was mounted to the frame this time, no zip ties through the fins but it was pressed up against the core. I also removed the low coolant probe and replaced it with a float switch in the header tank.

I will recheck for stray current, replace all rubber mounts and see if I can fashion up a proper shroud that moves the electric fan away from the core.

Oh and the next radiator is going to be copper core!

On the plus side I've been meaning to fit an aircon condenser in front of the radiator which requires the mounts to be moved back a little... so I would have had to remove the radiator any way....

But still, I don't want to be buying a new radiator every year or two!

Anyone else having issues with pattern part aluminium radiators?