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Thread: Life of Puma FRONT diffs...

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drover View Post

    And all component are quite and working very well.

    It's not all bad in PUMA world
    The one in my sig has been(touch wood) fantastic.Just clicked over 60K and done a lot of off roading,often loaded but no towing.

    Has virtually been trouble free.

    No major repairs at all.

  2. #12
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    Mine got a new clutch and all the slack is gone,it was like it from new,62k towing and travelling over Oz.My only issue is the polution gear,I'm going to de-cat it and chip it. Pat

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Mine got a new clutch and all the slack is gone,it was like it from new,62k towing and travelling over Oz.My only issue is the polution gear,I'm going to de-cat it and chip it. Pat
    one of the best and most sensible upgrades for any modern CR diesel imo.

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Mine got a new clutch and all the slack is gone,it was like it from new,62k SNIP Pat
    My clutch replacement didn't make any difference to drive line clunk. However the blown gear box rubber did a bit.
    When I voluntary replaced the p38 with a Sal at 70K, I eliminated all my drive line clonk. Quite surprising and not expected, but very welcome. Just could not be bothered dealing with a stranded car and road side assist in the desert. Especially when so many other P38 explosions examples have paved the way.

    Vehicle is out of warranty in Sept, might see if I can get some front diff inspection before it's over.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    one of the best and most sensible upgrades for any modern CR diesel imo.

    jc

    Had much to do with the DPF and EGR on the passenger diesels JC ?

    I may need to play with a newish (12,000km) 2l PSA 165HP HDi engine

  6. #16
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    My clutch replacement didn't make any difference to drive line clunk. However the blown gear box rubber did a bit.
    When I voluntary replaced the p38 with a Sal at 70K, I eliminated all my drive line clonk. Quite surprising and not expected, but very welcome. Just could not be bothered dealing with a stranded car and road side assist in the desert. Especially when so many other P38 explosions examples have paved the way.

    Vehicle is out of warranty in Sept, might see if I can get some front diff inspection before it's over.
    Pretty much everything I've done (MD rear shafts and flanges, front Ashcroft centre and HD flanges) has reduced lash. I'd strongly recommend you inspect your front diff - it's about an hours work to pull the front, so hardly a big job.

    Slightly OT, but I'm not aware of many (any?) P38 explosions? Plenty of excessive wear stories, but nothing that would get you stranded (short of just ignoring an obvious issue developing)?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by n plus one View Post
    Pretty much everything I've done (MD rear shafts and flanges, front Ashcroft centre and HD flanges) has reduced lash. I'd strongly recommend you inspect your front diff - it's about an hours work to pull the front, so hardly a big job.

    Slightly OT, but I'm not aware of many (any?) P38 explosions? Plenty of excessive wear stories, but nothing that would get you stranded (short of just ignoring an obvious issue developing)?
    You can see through the filler plug with a good inspection lamp, I use an LED torch, and rotate the diff around so you can see the end of the pin where it sits in the carrier. If you then rotate the pinion flange slightly back and forth you can gauge the amount of movement. In this case the rolled pin that retains the crosshaft had long been broken and the crosshaft was out and touching the crownwheel,

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #18
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    You can see through the filler plug with a good inspection lamp, I use an LED torch, and rotate the diff around so you can see the end of the pin where it sits in the carrier. If you then rotate the pinion flange slightly back and forth you can gauge the amount of movement. In this case the rolled pin that retains the crosshaft had long been broken and the crosshaft was out and touching the crownwheel,

    JC
    That's a bit quicker/easier than pulling the entire third member - though that's not too big a job really with the Rover diff.

    Mine had sheared the pin straight through the middle - rack halve had backed out but not completely as they had been blocked by the CW. Lucky!

  9. #19
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    I read on Defender2 that all the 110 and 130 models came standard with four pin carriers after 2010??. Pat

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Had much to do with the DPF and EGR on the passenger diesels JC ?

    I may need to play with a newish (12,000km) 2l PSA 165HP HDi engine
    Main trouble is engine light and derate even though the cycle was performed properly. Pat

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