County ignition switch problems

**steveG** · 19th August 2013, 05:00 PM

The ignition switch on my county has been a bit tempermental for the last few days.

Symptom is that you turn the key to the on position, the battery and oil lights come on as normal but then go off, or if they do stay on will often go off after you release the key from cranking. I've currently disconnected the fuel shutoff on the injection pump so the engine still starts and runs, but instruments and alternator only work when they feel like it.

Is it something simple that I can fix if I pull the ignition switch out, or will it likely need a new switch. I'm currently in Alice Springs and heading back across the Simpson on Weds so not keen on pulling it all apart if theres no chance of fixing it.
Is there anyone in Alice other than Suttons that might have a switch?

Steve

**Bearman** · 19th August 2013, 06:33 PM

Sounds like the bottom of the switch is coming apart Steve. You may be able to tighten it back up if you pull it out. A new switch is the answer long term.

**steveG** · 19th August 2013, 07:20 PM

Thanks Brian.
Do you know if theres acess to the switch by taking the instrument cluster out? Mines had a defender dash fitted if that makes a difference.

Steve

**landcol** · 19th August 2013, 09:05 PM

Hey Steve I've an 03 so a little different but just had this drama, pulled the instrument cluster out had easy access turned out as the ignition turned the spring was popping the switch off. Popped the switch off and turned they key a few times and clipped it back on. Seems to be ok thus far...really not wanting another repair!

**Bearman** · 19th August 2013, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Brian.
Do you know if theres acess to the switch by taking the instrument cluster out? Mines had a defender dash fitted if that makes a difference.

Steve

I am not sure what differences there are with the def cluster but you usually have to undo the switch bolts and pull the switch out to get at the back of it. They are shear off anti-theft bolts and you will probably have to use a hammer and punch or small cold chisel to undo them.

**2 rocks** · 19th August 2013, 09:19 PM

Hi Steve
When "the Count" arrived a couple of months back the car would start but the key would not stay in the run position - unless you held it there

.

I got replacement from a supplier in in Vic for about 120$ which I thought was ok - it was a fiddly job getting the shear bolts drilled out but I did it without removing the instrument binnacle.

I don't know who, if anyone will have one in Alice - I got it from Rover Parts, but I think Mario from Roverlord has 'em too - he's a vendor on here. You're time frame is a bit tight though...

Good luck and let us know how you go!
Cheers
Mike

**steveG** · 20th August 2013, 12:55 PM

Thanks all.

Have ordered one from BMI in Sydney which will hopefully get to Birdsville before I do. Have some wire just in case I need to "fix" it on the way.

Steve

**isuzu110** · 20th August 2013, 03:08 PM

You can replace the security bolts with M8. You will need to remove the ignition lock to access the bottom grub screw retaining the ignition switch to the locking mechanism. You can access the top grub screw in situ, but not the bottom.

I just replaced my third switch last Thursday. The cast lugs break holding the switch backing plate on and the switch starts to separate. My last switch was replaced at no cost by the supplier, but that's not the real issue.

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