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Thread: Ashcroft hd cvs & axles or Allisport intercooler?

  1. #21
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    If you go to auberin.com it's the combo egt.
    You get the gauge the probe and exhaust plug which I'm gonna get welded into the dump pipe. The probe then screws into it.

    You can get a stainless steel plug or carbon composite one for a mild steel exhaust. That's the one i got.

    Bought it last night.
    $103 landed.
    I can send you the link tonight.
    If you have problems finding it.

  2. #22
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    it is preferable to have the proble before the turbo, in the exhaust manifold, where all four/five pots have converged. Mine is in the dump pipe, but if doing again I would try for the manifold. Post turbo numbers have to be lower than pre when watching your gauage, and its is not by one set amount of difference in temp.

  3. #23
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    do it pre turbo, you are going to get some meaningful comparisons with other Td5's as I think most of us have them pre turbo. Mine is actually in the egr blanking plate, but a better place is just before the turbo.

  4. #24
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    Mine is in the manifold just before the turbo. It can be drilled and tapped after the pipes converge. If you put it there you will want to be mindful of the angle you install it at if you want to put the turbo heat shield back on - otherwise throw it away!

    Like others said - pre turbo is best. Personally I wouldn't consider putting it in the dump pipe for the sake of convenience, the figure you get will be of much less use. After all, once you have it in you will most probably drive to the EGT reading, more so than your revs. I found EGT became the limiting factor in my driving i.e. when to lay off the throttle or change gear. After a while, once you get used to a new style it just becomes second nature.

    Back towards the topic though.

    I have Ashcroft half shafts, CV's and flanges ready to go in and have been meaning to install them for a while now and change to oil lubed hubs too. I run a front locker and think I may be on borrowed time - especially as since getting the replacement parts I now fear breaking something a lot less and am a bit more flippant with engaging the front locker. It's amazing what having parts in stock does for your appetite for risk (what little I have).

    BTW do the standard shafts and CV's have a second hand value?

    Regarding the wear of the CV's mentioned a while back - there is a page / tutorial on Ashcrofts website about it. Apparently they are softer than the OEM and so deform (which is why they break less readily) which eventually results in a tendency to bind (I think?). The tutorial covers reworking them....

    http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co...int_rework.pdf

    Ian.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mools View Post

    BTW do the standard shafts and CV's have a second hand value?]

    Ian.
    I sold my front 1/2 shafts with the stock CV's for $200 on this site, with 20,000km on them.

    Still got the rears shafts.....any body ???

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    it is preferable to have the proble before the turbo, in the exhaust manifold, where all four/five pots have converged. Mine is in the dump pipe, but if doing again I would try for the manifold. Post turbo numbers have to be lower than pre when watching your gauage, and its is not by one set amount of difference in temp.
    If it's installed pre turbo is it best to remove the turbo From air intake and ensure there are no metal pieces that can be ingested by the turbo?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by noogie View Post
    If it's installed pre turbo is it best to remove the turbo From air intake and ensure there are no metal pieces that can be ingested by the turbo?
    I would say so, but not familiar with where its best put on a Td5. You can also grease up the drill bit so the swarf mostly sticks to it. Just dip and drill a bit, then remove and dip and drill. If the room is there you could also place a strong magnet right next to where you are drilling.

    Goingbush or such should be able to provide better information than me

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by noogie View Post
    If it's installed pre turbo is it best to remove the turbo From air intake and ensure there are no metal pieces that can be ingested by the turbo?
    Yes. Remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold and make sure there is no shavings before re-assembly.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  9. #29
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    I would not worry about removing the turbo, a bit of swarf wont hurt.

    if your concerned magnetise the drill bit and tap with a rare earth magnet
    and drill the hole with a vacuum cleaner next to the drill bit.
    and tap the same way.

    no need to bother with grease

    any dry swarf will just get blown out the dump pipe before the turbo gets a chance to spin up. wont hurt a bit

    dont forget to buy the correct NPT tapered tap, about $50 locally.

  10. #30
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    How much does a rare earth magnet cost? Where do you buy them?

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