Thread: constant whine in tune with engine revs

Noise 1 could be an exhaust manifold stud that's snapped. That would make like a slipping belt kinda noise, usually more pronounced /detectable under load.

Noise 2... Could be anything really. Is it a rotational noise or just there and constant?

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The closest thing I could relate noise 1 to would be a power steering system that is in need of some fluid but my fluid levels are good and the noise is there constantly without turning the wheel .

Noise 2 is rotational related its not there when stationary .

Thanks for you help .

Check your inlet/exhaust manifold for soot and the like - your description is a dead ringer for a bad gasket/manifold warped/stud snapped etc. Basically exhaust is escaping and it sounds like a drive belt slipping.

No 2 - Check your wheel bearings. Jack the car up 1 wheel at a time. Hold the wheel at 9 and 3 and push and turn clockwise and then back again a few times. Do this while pulling the wheel as well. Then hold it at 6 and 12 and do the same. If there is any overly loud grumbling or grinding or noises that do not sound right = wheel bearing. If you can hold the wheel at 12 oclock and rock back and forth and there is movement (while its jacked up) then this is also wheel bearing.

The noise can be present when coasting and not when under power because the hub may be sitting slightly differently in the wheel bearings which will change/reduce/increase the sound...

EDIT:

There are plenty of guides online and the Haynes manual will show you step by step how to replace wheel bearings. You will need a Torque wrench, 52mm box socket ($20 online) for the lock nut and adjuster nut, some good grease, locktite or similar, cold chisel for removing the old bearing races & a good selection of other basic tools.

Manifold is a bit more tricky & really depends on what is causing the noise (if it is the manifold that is). You can just torque the bolts up again too see if their lose and you might get lucky (torque settings are in the Haynes manual for everything - if you dont have one of these get one :P) but if its a gasket then you have to remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold and all associated **** to get at it. Also if you replace the gasket and the issue is the inlet/exhaust manifold warping then you've done it for nothing

Passenger??

John - would your answer still be the same if Dylan's noise 1 had a mechanical sound to it. I have the same symptoms and I know I have a snapped exhaust manifold bolt. I swore blind that it was a warn bearing on something off the fan belt. The mechanic was unable to replicate the noise while on the hoist. The offered explanation for the noise was the exhaust manifold but i'm skeptical because it has a mechanical whine to it.

cheers Mark

Ok so here's where i'm up to . got home from work late this afternoon and had a good look around exhaust manifold as was suggested and did find a hint of black soot around the first port its only a little bit and is not super obvious. Could this be the culprit . Is there any way of determining wether it is to blame before i take action .? where do i go from here .?

I only had enough time to check the front two wheels . i followed the procedure phibbzy recommended .I didn't get any noticeable grumbling and there was no play when rocked back and forth but they both didnt seem to be spinning that freely either ? i got the slightest metal on metal rubbing sound coming from the drivers side does this sound like a bearing .

Hi Dylan

As for the manifold. Removing the manifold is not a complex job but is time consuming. You have to remove the turbo and some of the bits and bobs on that side of the head. Eckolsim on the forum has done his and he recommended cutting out the webbing from the manifold when it's out. If the manifold is warped it can be skimmed. If a bolt is snapped in the head you'll need to remove it and possibly replace it with a helicoil. If money permits you can tap the holes/head to accommodate a larger longer bolt for all bolts. If you need to cut one it wouldn't be much more to do all since it's the labour of removing the manifold that bites. Bruce Davis can advise you on that mod. I spoke to him about my manifold.

As for cost if a mechanic did it, I was informed by my mechanic that he couldn't quote a fixed price because he wouldn't know until the manifold was off how much work was involved. Removing the snapped bolt could be a 10 min job or hours. Mine is in a pretty bad state after ignoring it for 18 months now.

If money was on a tree in the rear garden Alisport out of the UK sell a TD5 manifold with a 12mm face plate designed not to warp.

If you haven't already done so, when the manifold is off tap an EGT sensor hole into the cast where the primaries merge. You can fit an EGT at a later time if you so desire.

As for the wheel bearings, slip your local mechanic a few bob to strip them, inspect and re-grease, for the cost of that job it's a 'better safe than sorry'.

let us know how you get on, it looks like I'll be walking a similar path soon.

MLD

Run a spanner over the manifold studs, you will soon see if any are lose or broken. If the rear is broken which is likely, do not remove the manifold.
If you have access to a lath or find some one that does turn down a guide the same outside diameter as the studs (ie nice fit into manifold hole) drill centre hole 3/16.
Place this guide in manifold and drill (with left hand bit) and use a easyout to remove the stud.
Do not drill to deep.
Have used this method several times without damage to tread in head.
If you like to PM me I will post you the guide to use, if you have a busted stud.