Swap front tyres to back and see if it goes away
If it does, then you have narrowed it down to one of two tyres. If it persists you know it may be an issue with the Landy itself
Hey folks,
My 2011 130 dual cab has developed a horrid vibration.
At first, this occurred sometime after fitting a set of wheels/tyres I had from another truck. Turned out a failed internal beadlock was to blame.
Changed out for the spare, and the truck rode like new again. The problem resurfaced a few months ago, so today we had the internal headlocks removed and the tyres put on some nice new rims. Problem is persisting.
The tyres are Mickey Thompson MTZs in 285/75R16. My second set after getting 100 000 faultless kms out of the first set.
The vibration happens bang on 80kmph and can be felt through the steering wheel and to a much lesser extent the seat.
Really would like to sort it as we go away in about 3 weeks.
Wheel bearings are good, tyres were balanced once on new rims.
Could it be one of the tyres themselves?
Cheers
Cammo
Swap front tyres to back and see if it goes away
If it does, then you have narrowed it down to one of two tyres. If it persists you know it may be an issue with the Landy itself
I've had tyres go out of round. Balance up OK dynamically but you could feel it on the road. Pretty easy to find - just jack up one wheel at a time and rotate it with something close to the tyre. If the gap changes as you rotate it that's you're problem.
Other things would be to have a really good at the tyres themselves for any signs of bulging etc, and to try swapping front wheels with the back to see if you get less/more vibration through the steering wheel.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
A couple of times in the past I have had the middle of the tread detach from the casing. When up speed this bit would stretch further out under centrifugal force and vibrate. In one case, the detached bit spectacularly flew off before I realised what the problem had been and with the other, looking at the tyre, the tread seemed more rounded and protruding in one spot.
More recently I bought a good of tubeless tyres in Wolf rims for Defender. When one persistently leaked around bead, got tyre place to put a tube in it. They put one with the teat that tapers out to about 16mm which only partly went through approx. 12mm hole in this rim. This was dynamically balanced. However, the dynamic balancer effectively ran at low road speed. What apparently happened at 90 - 100 kph is that a small section of the improperly seated tube moved outwards enough to throw wheel out of balance. Was cured by removing tyre and tube from rim and boring out teat hole to accommodate the more common larger sized teats on tubes. Note best to fully remove tyre if boring rim as one small sliver of swarf remaining can subsequently cause a slow leak puncture.
Got the same tyres on mine, no issues so far with 20,000k's on them.
Do you have a lift ? Because that will cause a vibration at about that speed on the PUMA.
Likely to be a lift if you have one as Drover said.
If you don't it would be worth checking the radius arm bushes depending on the km traveled it might also be a swivel bearing preload issue.....
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