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Thread: PUMA drive train noise!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    PUMA drive train noise!

    Had an annoying noise in my 13 110 yesterday. Driving in Sydney after coming off the renamed F3(now M1), when approaching traffic lights, I'd select neutral and coast to a stop.

    From <20km/h I had this horrible noise, very similar to the typical backlash sound, but consistant and constant with the approximate driveshaft rotation speed!

    At first I thought it was a universal flange very loose, unfortunately not!

    It only happens occasionally, and I'm hoping I can replicate it when I take it in to the dealer!

    It is significant enough, that along with the noise, you can also feel movement through the truck, and on the gear lever, in sync with the noise!

    I also think that the backlash in the Tx case, has also increased, but this may be my imagination!

    Anyone had any similar experiences?

  2. #2
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    badly adjusted or binding handbrake drum maybe?

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Ive been in several puma's that do this, including my own, but i wouldnt call it a very bad noise, what i have been told is that its the hand brake drum grabbing lightly, which i guess i can confirm as mine does it much worse coasting to a stop when the hand brake is on a click or 2.

    My puma also has quite a bit of back lash, but hopefully some of the slop will be gone in a few days as its getting E-lockers front and rear as we speak

  4. #4
    pbroz Guest
    I had similar noise in my 2008 puma... It went on like this for about 18 mths. Been close to 4 yrs without any reoccurrence... No issues with drive train either...

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    That's an extra special PUMA defender noise. It's a rythmic clunk that happens when you have it warm and you coast to a stop. It's the handbrake drum. All of them are out of round by a very small amount, but the result is that the handbrake grabs and clunks noisily as you cost to a stop. It's not a fatal issue, it won't kill anything. Eventually the drum and the handbrake shoes will wear back to round.

    The proper solution would be to have the handbrake drum machined round again.
    The dealer solution is to slaken off the handrake till it's loose and nearly useless.

    Oh - the only other similar noise I had was caused by a disintegrating diff. That happened 3 times on my MY03 when it was new, and three times on my MY09 when that was new, but no diff issues in my latest MY13.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    So has anyone with a Puma swapped to an x-eng brake and did the noise disappear?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    The X-Brake is such a neat idea. It would have been nice if such an idea was made standard long ago, as it appears to be simple and effective.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BilboBoggles View Post
    Oh - the only other similar noise I had was caused by a disintegrating diff. That happened 3 times on my MY03 when it was new, and three times on my MY09 when that was new, but no diff issues in my latest MY13.
    I'm filled with confidence how you just casually mention the disintegrating diff

    I have been thinking the worst! Thanks to all who have responded, I'm going to check out the handbrake this arvo!

    Is it true that most transmission brake drums are machined "out of round"? I've always thought it was to positively lock the hand brake on steep inclines?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    (deleted because I was waffling)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    The trick with the Defender is to not worry too much about things. And don't do a search on the rear diffs on this forum, that's for sure. If you are unlucky you might hit issues, but often they occur during warranty, and if you get a good replacement then it's all OK. My MY03 had three replacement rear diffs in the first 6 months, and then the last one has done 200,000k's with no issues. The MY09, also did three rear diffs in the first 3 months, but I only kept that vehicle till it was up to 80,000k's old.

    It's also not a huge amount of money to put a better Ashcroft diff in the rear.

    So best thing is to just smile and carry on until you can't, then fix it.

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