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Thread: EGT Gauge sensor location

  1. #11
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    Just go in the side and miss the shield.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    There's some piccy's and instructions at the bottom of this page too:
    EGT Probe, Exposed Tip [TC-KEGT] - $36.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry

    Steve
    Hi Steve
    Thanks for the photos.
    I didn't get that threaded part.
    Seems like the sensible way to go.
    Would you know if I could pick something like that up at the hardware / auto parts store?

    Are you going to the defender County day this Sunday with Lrocv at westerfolds Park?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Like this, there are several different styles but you need steel or stainless steel. Brass will soften and keep loosening at exhaust temps.

    Thanks Dougal.
    Do you reckon I can pick one of these up somewhere?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by noogie View Post
    Hi Steve
    Thanks for the photos.
    I didn't get that threaded part.
    Seems like the sensible way to go.
    Would you know if I could pick something like that up at the hardware / auto parts store?

    Are you going to the defender County day this Sunday with Lrocv at westerfolds Park?
    Planning to be there, but if its a crap day its a long way to drive to stand in the rain. Will see how it goes.

    You might get lucky with a fitting from the likes of Enzed/Pirtek, or a pneumatics place etc.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by noogie View Post
    Thanks Dougal.
    Do you reckon I can pick one of these up somewhere?
    Hydraulic hose and fitting shops are your best bet. Measure the probe first.

    I have mine done up just tight enough that I can wrestle the probe back out if I ever do something different. If you tighten then further they crimp on and would need the nut and sleeve cut back off if you needed to use a different fitting.

  6. #16
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    Just had a thought.
    Is the manifold made out of cast iron.
    If so can I weld that fitting to the manifold?
    It seems easy to do but not sure if you can weld to cast iron.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by noogie View Post
    Just had a thought.
    Is the manifold made out of cast iron.
    If so can I weld that fitting to the manifold?
    It seems easy to do but not sure if you can weld to cast iron.
    Just drill it, tap it and fit a compression fitting. Welding cast iron is just making the job bigger.

    You can even drill and tap with the turbo in place. Cast iron swarf is fine and powdery, it blows through the turbine on startup without causing any problems.

  8. #18
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    Yeah. I agree. I'm take your advice on that.
    Cheers
    Mick

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Just drill it, tap it and fit a compression fitting. Welding cast iron is just making the job bigger.

    You can even drill and tap with the turbo in place. Cast iron swarf is fine and powdery, it blows through the turbine on startup without causing any problems.

    Just use some grease on the drill and tap, it'll pick up most all the swarf anyway.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Just drill it, tap it and fit a compression fitting. Welding cast iron is just making the job bigger.

    You can even drill and tap with the turbo in place. Cast iron swarf is fine and powdery, it blows through the turbine on startup without causing any problems.
    Would you actually do this? Havent drilled cast iron before, but the swarf worries me, for 10 mins to remove the turbo, would it not be worth removing it for piece of mind?

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