I would use larger joints, 1310.
I know that the length is different, also that the flange bolt-pattern is different, but is there any other reason why a D2 double-cardan front propshaft would not be a suitable starting point from which to fab a front propshaft for my Puma 130? I'd like to give it a bit of a lift at some point and would like to have the propshaft sorted first. Can the front yoke be interchanged to overcome the bolt-pattern issue?
I would use larger joints, 1310.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
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						you just have to change the output flange on the trans case to a D2 one and then get the shaft lengthened and balanced HOWEVER I did this with my Puma with a 2 inch lift and wore out the DC joint twice in <10,000k and at the end of that the diff end uni was buggered too. You can have it re-built with a Hardy Spicer heavy duty D2 DC joint which should improve it or you can get a Tom Woods (or other DC shaft) from overseas - if you do a search there is plenty on this in the forum. I ended up getting Hardy's to make me a custom shaft.
Do yourself a favour and get a Woods shaft
Wayne
VK2VRC
"LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
Taking the road less travelled
'01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
LowRange 116.76:1
Wow I have no desire to introduce components to my vehicle that are going to wear out every few thousand K's, life is busy enough as it is. Would greasable unis in a D2 shaft solve this?
I got a quote on a DC joint from Spicer's and they offered me a 'special price' of $1800 for the joint alone. I declined.
I did search on here, didn't come up with anything specific about the D2 shaft to defender hence the original question.
Am I right in thinking that the shaft from Tom Woods comes in at around $750?? That's why I'm looking at more budget options.
I don't have any personal knowledge on the Pumas, but isn't the D2 shaft a problem even on a D2?
I could be missing something, but by the time you buy an new D2 shaft and have it modified to suit you'd be up around the price of a custom made Woods shaft anyway, and have a much lesser product in your hands.
I'm not sure how that would make the D2 shaft a more budget option.
Edit: IIRC the Woods DC shaft I had made for the County was a bit over $500 a couple of years back when the dollar was a bit better than it is now.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
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						yep, Steve is right - thats what I was getting at in my round about way. Just a D2 shaft will set you back around $580 new, then the mods. The quote I got from Spicers for a custom D2 shaft with their HD DC joint and stronger 1310 joints was $924. I think your price of $1800 for the joint only would be for their CVX-30 Cornay joint ehich is a whole different kettle of fish - see pic
Heres a link for the Woods shaft if you want to investigate. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
I dont really think there are any reliable budget options for a front Puma shaft - better to do it properly or maybe forget the lift?
Get a woods and be done with it...
There will more than likely be a brand spanking new Woods shaft for sale in the markets section soon specifically made for a Defender as a courtesy to Tom Wood, complete with a Defender/D1/RRC output flange.
It's being offered to someone prior to listing, if they don't want it, up it goes.
Tom is out of pocket ATM and I want to help him get his money back.
Stay tuned.
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