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Thread: Clutch Contamination

  1. #1
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    Clutch Contamination

    Hi All,
    The clutch in my 02 TD5 Defender has un-expectedly been getting worse and worse (shuddering) over last 6 months. To the point now where it is slipping while l am doing 80kmh no clutch engaged!

    I suspect contamination as the clutch is not that old - l had the fuel pressure reg replaced on back of block 6 months ago. It was leaking fuel. Could this have contributed to the clutch issue?

    It goes in this week for the work to be done....


    Thanks,
    Mike
    2011 DEFENDER 130

  2. #2
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    yes it can, the diesel can leak down through the housing joint and gets fanned around in the fly wheel housing.

    the quick check for this is to pull the crank angle sensor and have a look at it, if its got a sheen on it and has picked up gunk then you are likely to have clutch contamination.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dave.

    It had been leaking for ages (according to prev owner). It was done at a Dealer in Vic (remains nameless). I had hoped when l bought it that they would have checked...hmmm.

    Nevermind. In it goes Monday to get new clutch (and flywheel). Might as well do rear main seal? Yeah?

    Mike
    2011 DEFENDER 130

  4. #4
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    I do them on condition..

    make sure the crank is absolutely spotless and dont lube it for the installation.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    Don't touch the rear main if it is dry, In all the years of Td5 clutch jobs I have nebver seen one leaking or replaced one other than when rebuilding. The Td5 has no real issues at all with rear main seal leaks. You are just as likely to introduce one by changing it

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #6
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    Hi Justin,
    Unless it's wet - l'll tell old mate to leave well alone! There's plenty of other oil leaks he can sort out anyway (sump being one!).

    Is it common for slippage to occur at such high speeds (80km/h)? This is a sure sign of contamination yes?

    Mike
    2011 DEFENDER 130

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_beecham View Post
    Hi Justin,
    Unless it's wet - l'll tell old mate to leave well alone! There's plenty of other oil leaks he can sort out anyway (sump being one!).

    Is it common for slippage to occur at such high speeds (80km/h)? This is a sure sign of contamination yes?

    Mike
    yes, or the pressure plate has a broken diaphragm spring that will also cause shuddering.

    the sump gasket will be easier to do with the trans out, just ensure engine is supported well...they tip back a fair bit.. using an engine bay support https://www.google.com.au/search?q=f...NaaFiQf45IGoCA will be necessary if removing the sump at the same time as the trans is out.

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
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    Thanks Justin.
    My Rover mechanic is a guru with the Defenders (all he works on). If it is a broken diaphragm spring l assume all will still need to be replaced as it has been slipping for ages.

    Mike
    2011 DEFENDER 130

  9. #9
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    Ive had one leak,

    it was under the exact conditions you appear to be describing.


    the bell housing was contaminated with diesel and there was some on the seal, the owner didnt want to change it and lo after about 3 months it was leaking.

    I dont change them on clutch change I change them on contamination.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_beecham View Post
    Thanks Justin.
    My Rover mechanic is a guru with the Defenders (all he works on). If it is a broken diaphragm spring l assume all will still need to be replaced as it has been slipping for ages.

    Mike
    broken or weak diaphragm spring will get replaced with the new clutch as it is part of the actual pressure plate, IE it is THE spring in the pressure plate.
    Hope all goes well, And just to add there is nothing WRONG with replacing the rear main seal, but I've never had cause to do so yet and as Dave said too maybe replace it on its condition, if slightly oily looking around the crank seal surface then if you want to do it go right ahead. Only use Genuine / Corteco brand though.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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