If they are standard 130 rims they should have tubes fitted. All series wheels, early RR steels and all 110 and defender standard steel rims are tube type.
You will get various opinions but that's the facts
Hi
Woke up this morning to a flat tyre on my 96 130 have just had 4 new BFG's fitted so a bit disappointed.
Pumped up tyre all seems fine, we did carry a fair bit of weight yesterday about 1.2 tonnes.
My concerne is someone said I should have tubes as the wheels are riveted?
Just wondered what people's thoughts are?
Cheers
Phil
If they are standard 130 rims they should have tubes fitted. All series wheels, early RR steels and all 110 and defender standard steel rims are tube type.
You will get various opinions but that's the facts
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
The tyre shop never told me, but if you put tubes with a tubeless tyre they are not always friends. The old bf mud terrains I had were quite rough internally, and would rub through the tube over time. Got sick of that and ended up getting tubeless rims with my new tyres. Not sure if the new bfgs are any better though
the rim will be marked tubed
HO HAR
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I have seen early 130 rims that were rivetted, I would use tubes on those.
Later rims (the ones with the ventilation holes) are welded, I would have no problem using tubeless on those.
Other issue is rim bead to hold the tyre on after a blowout. People have told me plain rims (no bead) should have tubes. Personally I have no opinion on that.
Terry
80 109" 2.6 P ex Army GS, saved from the scrappie.
95 300tdi 130 Single cab tray.
2010 Guzzi 750
Hi Guys,
130 rims need tubes if there is no 'safety bead'. For example the disco series 1 rims have a 'safety bead' and I am running Disco rims for that reason. I have not seen any 130 standard rims with the safety bead on them. I was running tubes on standard 110 rims and they drove me crazy rubbing through all the time. Also they don't like low pressures. Your insurance company can get you for not running tubes in a rim without 'safety beads'.
No bead = tubes
'safety bead rims' = No tubes.
Cheers,
Brian
Well now I'm a little embarrassed as the rims do have tubes!
The flat had a scuffed area on it.
Only one of the tyres has the valve neatly sitting in the valve hole of the rim the rest are poking out at an angle.
I got out my tyre plier kit out removed the tyre (easyer said than done!) and patched the tube.
That valve is sitting neatly in its hole now.
So now my question is would the tubes have moved with a fair bit of weight in the back, the pressures were at 40psi?
I've uped them to 60 at the back while I'm putting a bit of weight in it.
Cheers
Phil
Hello,
Exactly what I did. The tyre shop would not fit the BFG to the tubed rim without a tube. As they got a flat I would go to another tyre shop and get them to mount it tubeless. Eventually got sick and tired of flats all the time, so i purchased 5 steel rims about $80 each. Haven't had a flat since.
regards
Andrew
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						Hi phil , please be carful of repair patches on tubes they can fail when tyers get hot without warning , you don't want this at high speed . jimr1.
 ForumSage
					
					
						ForumSage
					
					
                                        
					
					
						My RRC alloy wheels are tubed type. They have no second lip for bead retention and the valve hole is bigger than a tubeless valve stem will fit. So needless to say it has run tubes forever.
That includes two sets of BFG A/T run from new to no-longer-legal. In all that time I had two tubes perish and fail, those tubes were very old.
I now run Wrangler duratracs on those same rims with tubes.
Summary: Tyre shop is making stuff up. Tubes work fine and should always be used on rims without the bead retaining hump.
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