Reply With QuoteMore than likely the clutch booster if they both get their vacuum from the one pump, otherwise you would expect both the brakes and clutch to have issues.
Cheers, Mick.
Master
Need Help with diagnosis
My 2000 TD5 Defender 130 has some clutch problems.
the symptoms are.
1. the pedal randomly goes from normal to being hard to push in.
2. when it does this the clutch slips.
There are no external hydraulic leaks.
The previous owner had this set up
[/URL]
The Booster is installed in front of the brake booster (and not connected obviously) The booster gets it air from a t piece in the brake booster line.
I am thinking the problem may be on the booster and may be related to loss of vacuum pressure? This would explain the clutch going soft to hard.
I am also thinking perhaps the vacuum pump is RS? Or maybe the slave and master cylinder are cactus.
I am not super keen to pull the gearbox and transfer case out if I don't have to.
Can anyone add their 2 cents worth on what they suspect may be the cause and how to test.
greatly appreciated.
Lord Jock
More than likely the clutch booster if they both get their vacuum from the one pump, otherwise you would expect both the brakes and clutch to have issues.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Master
SubscriberSince it's slippijng when it's getting hard to push, that might mean there is resdual pressure in the hydraulic lines. Could it be the clutch pedal does not have enough free travel. Without free travel the pressure in the hydraulic line does not fully dissipate, so continual usage might cause it to lock up. Or perhaps the poppet valve in the master cylinder is sticking?
Master
I am not confident that the brake assist is working properly either so it it may be vacuum related.Originally Posted by mick88
Master
SupporterI would put a vacuum gauge on your vacuum line to test...sounds very much like a vacuum pump issue or a hole in your main vacuum line.
Master
Here is the Latest.
I replaced the Master cylinder and the Slave cylinder. Oh what fun this was.
The result was no change and both the old ones looked fine, there was no sign of wear.
I have been able to bypass the Vacuum booster finally today with a hose made up to take it out of the system. The result? Well I believe i have isolated the problem to either the booster or the vacuum pump.
I suspect it is the booster as there is vacuum on the line and I think the brakes feel fine also.
Does anyone recognise the booster from the above picture? I haven't had a proper look but there isn't much to identify it. Perhaps a few numbers from memory. When I get a chance I will pull it out and have a look. It looks like it may have a diaphragm in there which may be a possible cause. I might just put a spring kit on the pedal as it doesn't have one and throw the Booster away. It is likely to be a something from the wreckers and not aftermarket and certainly not genuine I would think.
Any thoughts on what is the likely problem?
cheers
Member
I had a similar problem on my 85 3.5 county with the standard clutch. My the clutch pedal would become very hard to push in when hot and the clutch would start slipping. Replaced the flexible line problem solved.
Jeffro
85 3.5 v8 County
Master
The flexible line? the vacuum line? or flexible hydraulic line?
YarnMaster
Check the clutch hydraulic hose could be breaking down internally the booster is a pbr vh40 or 44 very comon on older cars
Wizard
Hi Gillie I also have a 2000 td5 wagon , when I fist brought It I thought the clutch was a bit stiff to push down , compared to my 110 v8 wagon , but I soon got used to It . My question to you is do you need a clutch booster if not take It out and go back to standard , keep It simple = less problems . cheers jimr1
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks