Reply With QuoteDrill out the old rivets, clamp the new window in place and drill from the inside using the original holes.
You need to use sealed rivets. You will need to purchase from a fastener/bolt supplier probably.
Fossicker
I purchased some late model rear sliding windows off ebay with the hope of dealing with the leaks and rattles in my 96 110 wagon. But now they have arrived i am scratching my head how to fix them in there! Originals have pop rivets around the perimeter from the outside but these dont appear to have any holes anywhere. There is an internal lip and wondered if some sort of clip is used? I could always glue them in with a modern panel adhesive but the thought of ever getting them out again is a worry!
Also with rivets used in general, for bottom door seal etc, are they something special or just get ally rivets of appropriate size from a fastener place?
Thanks in advance for any help. I did try and search thinking the question could have been asked before but drew up a blank.... maybe i am doing something wrong!
Swaggie
Drill out the old rivets, clamp the new window in place and drill from the inside using the original holes.
You need to use sealed rivets. You will need to purchase from a fastener/bolt supplier probably.
ChatterBox
SubscriberThe aluminium sealed rivets you need are 4.8mm x 12mm.
The late windows are stuck on with a sealant, as well as little plastic clips which go on the inside to pull the frame to the body. I only know this from the horrible job of removing these windows to fit gullwing windows.
It's a much easier job removing the windows from earlier models.
Given yours is an '86 model, I would take Ben's advice and drill through the original rivet holes.
Note: When the windows are originally installed they have a foam seal between the frame and body in addition to the sealant. You might find the foam is missing if they're second hand windows because the foam gets wrecked when the windows are removed. It might pay to get some self adhesive foam strip if it is missing. The windows might not seal well without the foam, unless you go crazy with sealant.
Cheers, Murray
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
Fossicker
Great, thanks for the info. I figure these windows havent had much use before being removed and seals are very good and fresh on them. I can see now that the inner line is the adhesive one. With that nice smooth (unable to leak) trim around the outside it is tempting to stick them back in without drilling through it, although i know ultimately that is the surest fixing. There are some very good adhesives, by sikaflex for example that have different bonding characteristics. I researched that for another project, so i wonder if I used one on the outer that is flexible and a sealant (I think it is 227) and then a stronger one on the inside where I could say get lengths of ally right angle to glue so one side bonds to the inside face of the panel and other along the inside edge of window and also right length to fit up to the lip on the inside of that late window - maybe even a grub screw or two to hold that angle against the window frame. That all possibly makes no sense! Unless someone thinks that sounds really stupid I might try it and photograph for reference of others. And of course the angle will be covered by the inner trim (I think).
And thanks for the rivet tips, will need a few of those plus also for my series ones.
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