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Thread: preventitive measures

  1. #1
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    preventitive measures

    Hi there folks. Looking at buying a new 130 HCPU, what sort of tips/tweaks etc would you recommend as a form of minimizing problems in the future? The vehicle wont be used heavily off-road.
    Thanks, have a good one!

  2. #2
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Adhere to the maintenance schedules as a minimum.
    More frequent oil changes with the right oil can't hurt.
    Address any problems as soon as you note them - especially if still under warranty.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  3. #3
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    Rust proof the bulkhead and chassis. (use whatever your favorite rust preventative is)

  4. #4
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    Thanks for responses so far, any tips on best way to rustproof, I'd prefer to do it myself if possible. Thanks in advance

  5. #5
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    My previous defender I used tectyl 506. This was quite good, but messy. My current one I used fish oil in the chassis. And lanolin in the bulkhead.

    I don't like either really. The both look messy and dirt sticks to both coatings. I think perhaps the better is the tectyl 506, but next time I'll dilute it 50% so it flows better. But any way it won't rust.

    I wish it were possible to get black waxoyl here.

  6. #6
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    I am very tempted to try diesel and some oil. At lest that is very easy to reapply.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for that. Yes, Tectyl does get messy. 'Black Bear' is an equivalent but applied by brush, great for local applications. I am going to use ACF-50 for the aluminum panels etc, this product is used on light aircraft, sprayed inside wings, hard to get at places etc. Look it up, good stuff and worth the money.

    Thanks, please keep them coming!

  8. #8
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    RE the ACF-50, Thanks for that - It looks very similar to INOX, but the original non Lanolin version.

    FWIW, I'm very impressed with this (INOX) - I used this throughout the bulkhead on my TD5, and it really spreads everywhere very easily. I also used it in the rear tub cappings, and again it's still whicking out the rivets 6 months later. Advantage of the INOX is you can buy it at Super Cheap!.

    (I've informally tested this INOX stuff out on some AA Battery enclosures that used to get wet and rust out in days. 1 year later they still look like new!)

    I think the only problem with original INOX is that I'm not sure it's good when exposed to road spray - ie on external applications, the heavier Lanox MX-5 version seems better at that.

  9. #9
    Babs Guest
    I'm going to ask a dumb question here but to my knowledge the bulkhead would be the roof, but it doesn't make sense I didn't think this would be prone to rust. Is that what everyone is referring to as the bulkhead, someone please correct me.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babs View Post
    I'm going to ask a dumb question here but to my knowledge the bulkhead would be the roof, but it doesn't make sense I didn't think this would be prone to rust. Is that what everyone is referring to as the bulkhead, someone please correct me.

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
    The bulkhead is the panel between the cabin and the engine, including the footwells sometimes called a firewall. Prone to corrosion in most landrovers

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