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Thread: Incase of rear diff explosion. SOP?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    As spacers I use some M10 nuts, (Just throw a handful in the tool box, you only need 4 in an emergency like this) just slide them over the studs and refit the 3/8 " UNF original flange nuts to clamp the drum in place. (DO NOT rely on the screw holding the drum in place!!!)OR you can rob a few applicable sized nuts from less important bits of the vehicle to get you out of trouble....although I am struggling to think of any M10 nut that is NOT important on a Defender...


    JC
    thanks JC....i have a plastic container full of bits and pieces that i carry all the time, justing wondering if i have enough to get by....might just throw some nuts in

  2. #12
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Just the other epic thread on the puma rear diffs.
    In that case I wouldn't worry too much - those failures are typically slow burns, it's more likely your front diff will go pop (in which case you pretty much do the same things as advised above).

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Apologies if you already know this, but I'm guessing since you asked the how to get home question then its likely you might be relatively inexperienced in 4WDing in general.

    Put some thought into what you would actually do AT THE TIME if it does fail - particularly on a steep climb.

    After the initial "WTF just happened moment" - then what??

    Foot brake will still work reasonably as it acts directly on the rear wheels (as well as the fronts), but handbrake will likely be ineffective (little weight on the front wheels) even though it will be acting on front wheels through locked CDL.
    If you were by yourself with no passengers you're likely screwed at that point as you can't get out to chock the vehicle unless you can somehow wedge the brake pedal.

    If you start to roll backwards and apply the brakes hard you'll likely lose your steering as front wheels will lock first (again due to little weight on them).

    Even if you get past all of that, and get the vehicle secured safely. There's a good chance you're not going to be able to drive it out in 2WD on the front diff only (even with reduced tyre pressures) so will need to be towed/winched out unless you are able to back down safely. I don't proclaim to be an expert at backing, but I've driven with a lot of people who have absolutely no idea how to back using their mirrors, and I've seen very near rollovers (and know of others that have actually rolled) as a result.

    Stepping off my soapbox now....

    Steve
    Pretty much got it in one! Working weekends, all my 4wding is done solo, so pushing the limits isn't something I get to do all that much.

    I guess the best outcome in a scenario you put forward if for me to at least move it of a track, in a stable and safe spot. Ideal in a spot more suitable for further work and recovery and out of a situation likely to be affect by flood situations.

    Thanks for the heads up RE - Handbrake functioning.

    Also, what signs am I going to get if the diff is slowing dying?

  4. #14
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Pretty much got it in one! Working weekends, all my 4wding is done solo, so pushing the limits isn't something I get to do all that much.

    I guess the best outcome in a scenario you put forward if for me to at least move it of a track, in a stable and safe spot. Ideal in a spot more suitable for further work and recovery and out of a situation likely to be affect by flood situations.

    Thanks for the heads up RE - Handbrake functioning.

    Also, what signs am I going to get if the diff is slowing dying?
    Rumbling/whining and increased drive train lash.

    Keep in mind that if you do blow a diff it'll probably be a) climbing a hill b) snatching someone.

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