Thread: Defender td5 130 clutch

Originally Posted by strangy

Wrong again.

I can only guess that you are referring to your own advice??

The brake&clutch workshop said that the torque of an engine being applied down to a 30mm diameter bronze bush would tear it apart long before it drove the truck. The word is that the brake/clutch fluid virtually welds the clutch disc to the flywheel/clutch plate.

Use third gear high range with clutch pedal on floor and keep jerking on and off with throttle might take some time but less dramatic than the tree

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

Use third gear high range with clutch pedal on floor and keep jerking on and off with throttle might take some time but less dramatic than the tree

Thanks but already tried that for half an hour and more.

For the first episode that worked after 5 minutes but this second episode is proving far more stubborn. I should have injected some diesel or oil onto the clutch plate after the first episode but didn't think that it would re-occur.

Unfortunately the td5 has a clutch pedal sensor and drive by wire throttle which limits the engine torque to almost zero in this situation so is far harder to do this than in an older mechanical diesel.

I suspect that the tree at speed will have to be the solution!!

Originally Posted by Daniel

Unfortunately the td5 has a clutch pedal sensor and drive by wire throttle which limits the engine torque to almost zero in this situation so is far harder to do this than in an older mechanical diesel.

I disconnected said clutch pedal sensor in the last couple of months, it made a vast improvement to the responsiveness of the engine during and directly after gear changes. Easily the best value for money modification I've done.

Originally Posted by Daniel

Thanks for the suggestions thus far.

The advice from a brake & clutch workshop is this -- "make sure your bull bar is strong and drive it into a tree - this will free up the clutch disc".

My bull bar isn't that strong so initially I will hook up a strong chain to a tree and drive off in 2nd high range.

I will keep you updated as to progress.

Tried for an hour continually driving off at speed with clutch pedal depressed and chained up to tree with 20 metres of chain - nearly snapped all axles as well as head off shoulders - no relief ... ah well back to removing t/case and gearbox I guess.....

What about spraying a can of aerosol brake cleaner into the bell housing

Hi Daniel , I don't know were you got hooking a chain to a tree , then driving to try and fix your clutch came from , all that will do is more damage to the drive train , as for squirting this or that inside a bell housing , I have never heard of that working either . I'm sure someone will tell me I'm wrong . At the end of the day It's fixable ,but the gearbox may have to come out . Let us know how you go . cheers jimr1 ..

Originally Posted by jimr1

Hi Daniel , I don't know were you got hooking a chain to a tree , then driving to try and fix your clutch came from , all that will do is more damage to the drive train , as for squirting this or that inside a bell housing , I have never heard of that working either . I'm sure someone will tell me I'm wrong . At the end of the day It's fixable ,but the gearbox may have to come out . Let us know how you go . cheers jimr1 ..

Jim - That idea came from a brake/clutch workshop - it normally works but with my truck the sticking clutch disc has just glued itself on too hard. I'm now converting one of the bellhousing drain plugs with a barbed hose fitting and pumping the bellhousing with penetrating oil. At the end of the day the gearbox may have to come out but I want to try everything else first.