Blew my Diff .... :(

**frantic** · 29th December 2013, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by tazd

Ok so this has answered several questions for me. just hit 275k on my rover diff.
After having my sals rear diff with arb cover for sale and no interest its time to fit it to my 03 130. new cranked trailing arms and bushes, hubs, rotors bearings, calipers, and now to decide if i get the maxidrive axles now or wait a little while, as i can just drop them in.
Diff is open oil bath, only other thing is do i look for a diff lock??? suggestions?
was worried about the clearance issue but after doing the front diff a month ago just turning around in the drive its crunch time.

Surprised you didn't sell it

If your going maxi(hy-tuff) get a Detroit locker for the rear from lucky8 to fit the Salisbury. Set it and then it's right, no holes for hoses or wires. I have a Detroit with hy tuff in my sal and it has worked very well the last 3 years ,the only times I've noticed it is going around an off camber roundabout with to much pedal and when some

put a nail in my rear tyre and it was 1/2 flat and it caused the tyre to skip going around a corner in the shops parking. That may have saved me from an accident as you could not see the tyre was flat unless you really looked at it, but it could have popped on the freeway home.

**mike_beecham** · 29th December 2013, 07:24 PM

Well,
Diff out and l cleaned the pan to find two bolt heads from the Crown Wheel in the base of the pumpkin. Some damage to the lip of the pumpkin to. (File that down).

One of the threads is still in the wheel BUT the other one is missing.....l am assuming it has prob been ground to nothing?!

When l turn the flange, it goers around fine for 3-4 turns THEN it gets very tight for a turn and a half.

Pics:

Bolt Heads

Damage on bottom of pumpkin

Crown wheel

Is this a common failure for these diffs?
What is likely to be the issue problem with it (in terms of re-build)?

Thanks to everyone for their help with this.

Mike

**isuzurover** · 29th December 2013, 07:45 PM

Originally Posted by mike_beecham

...

Is this a common failure for these diffs?
What is likely to be the issue problem with it (in terms of re-build)?

Thanks to everyone for their help with this.

Mike

The cause is most likely incorrectly torqued or non-loctited bolts - are any of the others loose?

Check the crowhwheel and pinion teeth carefully for damage. It is likely the diff is cactus.

**mike_beecham** · 29th December 2013, 07:53 PM

I havent checked other bolts.
Dumb question - why does this render the diff un-serviceable?

Should l check the new one (2000kms old)???

Mike

**isuzurover** · 29th December 2013, 09:48 PM

Originally Posted by mike_beecham

I havent checked other bolts.
Dumb question - why does this render the diff un-serviceable?

Should l check the new one (2000kms old)???

Mike

The marks on the bolt heads are most likely from being crunched by the crownwheel and pinion gears. I would be suprised if there aren't heavy marks or chips on the gears - likely at the point on the crownwheel where it gets "stiff" to turn. Can you post a pic of the crownwheel teeth?

**justinc** · 29th December 2013, 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by mike_beecham

Well,
Diff out and l cleaned the pan to find two bolt heads from the Crown Wheel in the base of the pumpkin. Some damage to the lip of the pumpkin to. (File that down).

One of the threads is still in the wheel BUT the other one is missing.....l am assuming it has prob been ground to nothing?!

When l turn the flange, it goers around fine for 3-4 turns THEN it gets very tight for a turn and a half.

Mike

the above is a worry. the p38 diff suffers also from a thin crownwheel, ie easily forced away from the pinion and then teeth come off...the point is there may be some distortion in the crownwheel after the crunching episode, i would be checking it with a dial indicator for true before reusing that gear set.

jc

**slug_burner** · 30th December 2013, 12:37 AM

Check out the contact details on this e-bay link The seller is an Aulro member and will be able to send you what you need, he wrecks a lot of D2s and I am pretty certain they use the P38 diff, he will be able to confirm it for you.

**uninformed** · 30th December 2013, 05:40 AM

Originally Posted by slug_burner

Check out the contact details on this e-bay link The seller is an Aulro member and will be able to send you what you need, he wrecks a lot of D2s and I am pretty certain they use the P38 diff, he will be able to confirm it for you.

AFAIK, D2 is not P38 diff in rear.

**mike_beecham** · 30th December 2013, 08:40 AM

Yeah all good.
I have a replacement diff (with 2000kms on it) to go in today. I will drop this buggered diff to my Rover mechanic, who does rebuild everything Rover, in the new year for him to look at.

Cheers,
Mike

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