Thread: Issue with My New 110

Originally Posted by Spencer72

Couple of issues with my new 110:

1. When in neutral vehicle is idling at 1000 (no drama). When I am moving in gear and go to change I put my foot on the clutch and the revs only go down to 2100 which makes gear change clunky. If I keep my foot on clutch, revs stay at 2g for a second or two prior to dropping. Is that normal??

2. Door trim is pulling of the door near front passenger window.

3. When I use my central locking to secure the vehicle, there is a buzzing noise in the drivers side door that goes for about 3 secs.

4. The seals on the door are now all sitting flush. Is there a way to get them to sit right? Im hoping this will slightly decrease the noise (ever so slightly).

Other than that happy with the 110. You really miss the air con outlets nearest to the door like most other vehicles. Only having them in the middle limits how much air you get.

1 - Not normal. Is your Brake lights working? There is a clutch switch which changes the throttle map during a gear change, that cct is driven by the brake light fuse. If you have a blown fuse then the engine will flare badly lik you are seeing.

2 - Door Trim, annoyingly normal. All of my defenders have done this. It's jsut a push fit. Dealer will fix. Or just get some Butly mastic, squirt it under and push it back on place. You may also want to squirt some into the corners to limit water into the door.

3 - Buzzing noise - That may indicate the solenoid is jamming before it fully travels home. Is the door locking? My TD5 just started doing this.

4 - Door Seals - Not sure I get what you mean - but the only way to change the profile of the door seals is to fit new ones. If the door is not pinching them tightly enough you may adjust the door close position, with either or both the lock pin, or shims under the door hinges. Alternatively a big bloke bending the door will do it as well..

Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

1 - Not normal. Is your Brake lights working? There is a clutch switch which changes the throttle map during a gear change, that cct is driven by the brake light fuse. If you have a blown fuse then the engine will flare badly lik you are seeing.

2 - Door Trim, annoyingly normal. All of my defenders have done this. It's jsut a push fit. Dealer will fix. Or just get some Butly mastic, squirt it under and push it back on place. You may also want to squirt some into the corners to limit water into the door.

3 - Buzzing noise - That may indicate the solenoid is jamming before it fully travels home. Is the door locking? My TD5 just started doing this.

4 - Door Seals - Not sure I get what you mean - but the only way to change the profile of the door seals is to fit new ones. If the door is not pinching them tightly enough you may adjust the door close position, with either or both the lock pin, or shims under the door hinges. Alternatively a big bloke bending the door will do it as well..

Bilbo - from your answer to No.3 it seems you have a TD5 which might explain why you've answered No.1 as you have. Assuming that Spencer72 has a "new" Deefer, and therefore a 2.2 Puma engine, then your answer is incorrect. It is normal for the engine revs to stay "hung up" for a few seconds on gear changes with a new 6 spd 2.2 Puma. This is the way the thing is programmed. I have largely got used to it and have no real issue with gear changes - mind you I'm coming up on 30k in my D90. There is supposed to be a switch from the transfer box to tell the computer if it's in low range which then cancels this function, but in high range this is just the way it is.

Plenty has been written on this subject, so a search will find you lots more opinions and the odd fact.

Spenser72
If you do have a new 2.2.
1 as John said, normal but annoying and you do get used to it. Expect a few embarrassing moments when you kangaroo the car a few times at the lights.
2 Depressing normal, had same on drivers side, dealer should fix it. You can fix it, just open the door card up a bit and you may be able to see where the fixing pin is missing the hole, line it up and press it back in.
3 Mine doesn't, get it checked.
4 I had a section of seal on the passenger side door bent in (about 300mm) and the door didn't seal, so the dealer took the seal off and bent the support back out, but in my case you could see daylight from inside. If you can't see daylight then it's probably the way it should be. PS it won't help the noise.

Cheers Glen

1. Normal and I find that I come back onto the throttle before I completely lift my foot off the clutch and the gear changes are smooth and the car revs drop as per normal.

3. Only bzzing I hear is the fuel pump. Well I think it's the fuel pump as it buzzes for about that long once I switch the car off.

Originally Posted by voltron

1. Normal and I find that I come back onto the throttle before I completely lift my foot off the clutch and the gear changes are smooth and the car revs drop as per normal.

3. Only bzzing I hear is the fuel pump. Well I think it's the fuel pump as it buzzes for about that long once I switch the car off.

Fuel pump or EGR?

Originally Posted by n plus one

Fuel pump or EGR?

It may be the EGR but from the descriptions on the sound of it in forum posts it doesn't really seem to be. Mine is a slight high pitched hum and you hear it for about 3 sec after turn off ??!

The throttle issue will take some getting use to, but I had an update installed a few months ago on my 2012 130 that made a big difference..now it's good and I'm use to the revs staying up a little higher during changes...if the sound after shutdown is in the front end is a chugging, it's the egr valve and normal, if it's to the rear of the vehicle and is a whine for a second or two it's the fuel pump, but it's pretty hard to hear and fairly normal.