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Thread: flatbed but lucky

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Brisbane
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    Well another day another day of head scratching, Anyone have drama like this and how did you overcome it? not sure I want to attempt taking the gear box out myself, not sure I'm up for it, also don't have an engine hoist, and buying one for this job or putting money in to let the experts at MR Autos do it is a bit of a conundrum, the manual says a lot of clutches have problems after being installed by amateurs, how hard to set it up correctly, or A1.
    Cheers ted

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Logan,Queensland
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    There is no real setup as such.
    The normal align the clutch plate so the input shaft goes in and adjusting the clutch pedal itself to ensure freeplay.
    I've used both methods, box out/motor out.


    Removing the box seems easier, but is extremely heavy and awkward, especially in such a confined space.


    Engine removal is a little more work, but easier on the human body.


    Where abouts in Brisbane are you ?
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
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    Clutch repair on the side of the road

    If I was forced into a road side repair of the clutch, I wouldn't pull the engine.
    It's easier by yourself to remove the gearbox, assuming you have a decent set of tools.
    Start by dropping the prop shafts, take the handbrake drum off, undo the four bolts holding the baking plate and swing aside tying it out of the way.

    Because of the weight of the combined gearbox and transfer box, it's best to separate the two first, needed is a couple of sockets, 300mm extension bar and handle. There are six fittings to undo around the transfer box and it helps if you make yourself a couple of guides to slide the box back on as this saves the transfer box seal edges, get a couple of long metric bolts with the same thread as the fittings, and after cutting the heads off, put a couple of hacksaw cuts in the end of the shaft wide enough to fit a screwdriver blade into.

    The gear box comes out and goes in easier if there are guides made for that also, pull up just enough of the floor to get to the top flywheel housing bolts and undo the gearstick's out of the way, the two clutch slave cylinder bolts can be undone and the slave cylinder can be tied across out of the way.

    Two people can then lift the separated parts out and back in again with out too much trouble. It helps if you give your self a bit of room by jacking up the wheels and sitting the vehicle on something sturdy like a couple of sets of heavy duty car ramps, or run the vehicle over a pit or storm water drain.
    Don't ever work under a car if it isn't stable.

    Let us know if this is the way you go and after getting the gear box out of the way there are a couple of things to look out for.
    .

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Brisbane
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    thanks for advise I'm in Redcliffe not far from MR Autos, just been down there and booked the Defender in to have the clutch renewed.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bracken Ridge - Brisbane - QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by ted44 View Post
    thanks for advise I'm in Redcliffe not far from MR Autos, just been down there and booked the Defender in to have the clutch renewed.
    I have had the fork fail twice.....make sure MR out a heavy duty fork in, they convince me not too first time round

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