Thread: Boost Alloy Wheels for Defender

You may have to remove the centre of the alloys (the plastic cap part) to have them fit over the drive flanges. It is hard to know exactly what flanges you have as they are interchangeable and would have been replaced a few times by now.

Originally Posted by flagg

You may have to remove the centre of the alloys (the plastic cap part) to have them fit over the drive flanges. It is hard to know exactly what flanges you have as they are interchangeable and would have been replaced a few times by now.

I had to remove the caps when I fitted hytuff flanges.

I have Boost alloy's fitted with their caps, on my '94/'95 110, the Defender has the MD flanges fitted as well.

Had no trouble with the centre caps, just with a couple of the 265 75 16, ST/C, Cooper tyres loosing their seal around the bead on the alloys.

Great looking Alloys for open road work, with a small advantage in stopping distance as well.

Not the rim for serious bush work though, as it's near impossible to change a tyre in the bush due to the safety ridge within the rim.
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Hi barrti,

I am due to take delivery of a 110 wagon in March 2014 with boost alloys. I am planning on swapping these out for steel wheels. If you are still looking for a set around then let me know.

Cheers

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

I have Boost alloy's fitted with their caps, on my '94/'95 110, the Defender has the MD flanges fitted as well.


Not the rim for serious bush work though, as it's near impossible to change a tyre in the bush due to the safety ridge within the rim.
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Get some tyrepliers, no problem breaking beads on mine with 255/85 KM2s. I was showed how to do it by a tyre repairer on the Gibb River road, he doesn't even try to use his machine on the Boost rims, but broke the bead on them in about 30 seconds with the tyrepliers.

Originally Posted by Iain_B

Get some tyrepliers, no problem breaking beads on mine with 255/85 KM2s. I was showed how to do it by a tyre repairer on the Gibb River road, he doesn't even try to use his machine on the Boost rims, but broke the bead on them in about 30 seconds with the tyrepliers.

I did have a set of 'Tyrepliers' and gave them away. I now carry two tyre levers and a couple of wooden wedges instead, much lighter.

My 'Tyrepliers' had a tendency to mark the alloy's where the bead seal is, I didn't want to take the risk of loosing air through a gouge mark when I'm away.

It sounds like your tyres maybe easier to change then the ST/C Coopers I have fitted. Now have a set of 235 85 16 BFG's on a set of 130 rims for scrub work, the Coopers were for the gravel road work I was doing a lot of at the time, I was installing VSAT satellite systems for broadband internet access into remote locations.
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It seems there are two casting styles of Boost alloys. The first attachment shows the later casting without the raised centre portion on which the plastic centre will not fit. I believe they changed the casting when the salsbury rear axle was superceded, so sometime during TD5 production. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by Avion8

It seems there are two casting styles of Boost alloys. The first attachment shows the later casting without the raised centre portion on which the plastic centre will not fit. I believe they changed the casting when the salsbury rear axle was superceded, so sometime during TD5 production. Hope this helps.

Have you got the story arse about face? My 2012 D90 has what you would describe as being the earlier casting.
In behind the plastic centre piece the end of the axle is covered with a rubber boot that just slides over the housing. I know this because after I refitted a rear wheel yesterday I found the rubber boot on the ground. Took me a little while to work out what is was and had to remove the wheel again to refit it as I didn't want to risk breaking the small plastic tabs on the centre piece.