2013 defender trouble.

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14th January 2014, 04:56 AM
Summiitt

If your defender even looks like it does any off road work, the dealers will try and talk you into the recommended 'arduous conditions' servicing. Which is every 12k, adds up in price though... I meet them halfway and get my 130 done at 15k instead of the standard 20k service intervals...I do about 5k a month, a lot of it in forestry and dirt/ off road driving and heavy towing, 10k servicing is simply a pain in the butt as I can't go without the ute for work for a day every 2 months.
14th January 2014, 07:03 PM
stickit

Quote:

Originally Posted by Summiitt

If your defender even looks like it does any off road work, the dealers will try and talk you into the recommended 'arduous conditions' servicing. Which is every 12k, adds up in price though... I meet them halfway and get my 130 done at 15k instead of the standard 20k service intervals...I do about 5k a month, a lot of it in forestry and dirt/ off road driving and heavy towing, 10k servicing is simply a pain in the butt as I can't go without the ute for work for a day every 2 months.

So you get the engine oil changed every 15000ks ? Ive always been told diesel eng's need doing every 5ks . It does depend on the oil capacity in the sump , if it does'nt hold a large amount say 10ltrs then change it . Hilux only hold 5 ltrs and 15ks is way to long . Common rails are the same and my mechanic said if you were to push it out to 10ks make sure the oil is really good . ( Top Dog ) My grandfather said oil is the cheapest thing you can put in your car !
15th January 2014, 11:28 AM
tuesdayfox

my rear door lock failed me after only 3 months' ownership from new
remote didn't unlock rear door and had to use the key

I thought it was due to dust build-up and use some WD 40 to clean it
and it has been working since....now 16k kms on the clock

might work for you

Cheers
Martin
15th January 2014, 11:46 AM
Lagerfan

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuesdayfox

I thought it was due to dust build-up ...

Pretty sure ours was dust build up too, that and about 600-700km of corrugations that went with it. Sounded like it was "trying" to unlock and just not making it.

We also have a spare wheel carrier (Rijidij) so weight on the back door shouldn't have been a problem in our case.
16th January 2014, 07:11 AM
Babs

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lagerfan

Had the rear door lock problem here too, MLR replaced the whole lock and seems to be ok for now. Failed on us halfway down the Oodnadatta with all our gear in the back :( luckily the key still worked with a bit of effort (force) but it was a nervous 10 minutes... More interested in you getting a 10k service, it's supposed to be 20k for MY13 onwards isn't it?

MY12 are a 20k service, I still get mine done every 10k.

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16th January 2014, 07:17 AM
Babs

Quote:

Originally Posted by landy

With regards to them telling you that the hub nut was cross threaded the workshop manual says to un-stake the nut before removal. The reason is that if you don't there is a chance that the threads will bind and pick up. Most, if not all mechanics fail to do this as it's a ***** to do and takes time. It's much easier to gun the nut off. The result is that they stuff the threads and just tell the service adviser that it was cross threaded, not their fault and it needs a new stub axle. Ultimately leaving the poor sap who trusted his Defender to the "experts" with the bill for their incompetence. In my opinion it is almost impossible to cross thread a good stub axle and hub nut as you wind on by hand and then torque it to spec. If it's cross threaded you know about it pretty quick and any safety competent technician wouldn't risk the hub failing in operation.. Cheers, Nino.

I know not to tighten the wheel nuts with a impact wrench, but are you say not to loosen them as well when removing?

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16th January 2014, 02:30 PM
Bush65

Quote:

Originally Posted by Babs

I know not to tighten the wheel nuts with a impact wrench, but are you say not to loosen them as well when removing?

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Babs, not the wheel nuts, it is the nut for the wheel bearings on the spindle, often called the hub nut.

They used to use a pair of nuts and a tab washer to prevent the nut from unloosening, but changed to a single nut which has a section that is "punched' into a groove in the spindle so it can't loosen.

The removal procedure is to reverse 'punch' the section of nut so it can be undone (the nut is not re-usable).

What happens is the lazy gorilla/mechanic, doesn't do this and instead use an impact wrench to force the nut off. The part of the nut that was in the keyway damages the end threads on the spindle, which in turn damage the threads inside the new nut, which then damages the rest of the threads on the spindle.

The appearance of the damaged threads is similar to that caused by cross threading the nut.
16th January 2014, 02:37 PM
Bush65

Dust in door locks, preventing them from operating properly is a common issue.

The numnuts at Land Rover design doors so the locks are outside of the door seals where they are exposed to dust :no2::no2::no2:

Other manufacturers with far fewer years designing vehicles for off road know that locks should be inside the door seals out of the dust.
25th January 2014, 06:29 PM
stickit

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bush65

Dust in door locks, preventing them from operating properly is a common issue.

The numnuts at Land Rover design doors so the locks are outside of the door seals where they are exposed to dust :no2::no2::no2:

Other manufacturers with far fewer years designing vehicles for off road know that locks should be inside the door seals out of the dust.

Well if it's dust that stuffs the rear lock ; then look out dealer because I live on a dirt road !!! The new lock makes a hell of a noise closing and they will have to fix , even thou I have used all of the adjustments on the catch to prevent it hitting .
26th January 2014, 08:53 AM
Breeza

This is my first post -purchased defender 90 - MY2013 - last October
Last owned series III utes in the late 80's -man has got be mad - nothing much has changed !
just the usual niggling problems to date

Thanks to this forum I have checked all the hoses

The bottom precooler hose to the turbo is being badly rubbed by the hexagonal steering shaft (towards the aft end) OK when cool the hose obviously expands in operation
Breeza

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