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Thread: Heavy duty Pitman / drop-arm ball joint?

  1. 13th January 2014, 10:55 PM #1
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    Heavy duty Pitman / drop-arm ball joint?

    I seem to have seen an article somewhere with a new heavy-duty ball-joint for the Defender / RRC steering drop arm? Anybody know about this? As far as I recall, it was a German product? Bigger ball and shaft if I recall?
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  2. 14th January 2014, 07:37 AM #2
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    I recently looked under a 78 series cruiser and noted the steering arm & drag link looked much lighter duty than defender standard equivalent. Front coils were the same.

    I've never broken a steering arm and couldn't see the benefit or viability for making a beefed up one. Doesn't mean they're not out there.
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    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
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  3. 14th January 2014, 05:52 PM #3
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    No mate not the drop arm itself, just the ball-joint. The bit that wears out all the time especially if it's a Britpart item...........
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  4. 15th January 2014, 05:36 AM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakeslouw View Post
    No mate not the drop arm itself, just the ball-joint. The bit that wears out all the time especially if it's a Britpart item...........
    I fitted a grease nipple to the bottom of mine to help with wear. It seems to have helped.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137
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  5. 15th January 2014, 11:29 AM #5
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    I ****ed mine off and went to the disco type problem solved
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  6. 16th January 2014, 09:04 AM #6
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    You need the ball joint packed with a MoS2 (molybdenum disulphide) fortified grease, and preferably with a calcium sulfonate soap/thickener.

    Resists wear and is water/rust resistant far more than a 'normal' lithium complex chassis grease.

    The grease nipple idea is excellent.
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  7. 16th January 2014, 10:14 AM #7
    uninformed
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    You need the ball joint packed with a MoS2 (molybdenum disulphide) fortified grease, and preferably with a calcium sulfonate soap/thickener.

    Resists wear and is water/rust resistant far more than a 'normal' lithium complex chassis grease.

    The grease nipple idea is excellent.
    Is that type of grease good for the Unis as well. i.e., can I use it on all the grease points on my 110 (TREs, Unis, A frame ball joint)
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  8. 16th January 2014, 12:01 PM #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    Is that type of grease good for the Unis as well. i.e., can I use it on all the grease points on my 110 (TREs, Unis, A frame ball joint)
    Some experts say moly shouldn't be used on rolling element bearings as it may make the rollers skid, but in close to 30 years of usage (mostly Castrol LMM) I've never had a problem, and apparently it depends entirely on the moly particle size as CAT recommend their 5% moly greases for any roller bearing including uni's as they have optimised (according to CAT) platelet size for roller bearings.

    Moly type greases and greases with suspended solids such as graphite and (cough, cough) lead and latterly tin napthanetes are ideal for sliding splines, ball joints and CV's.
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