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Thread: Defender Puma Push button ignition

  1. 1st February 2014, 11:19 PM #1
    Drewgray Guest

    Defender Puma Push button ignition

    Hi Everyone
    I want to remove my key ignition and just have a push button start can anyone point me in the right direction ? My ignition is on its way out and I,ve been told of ignition problems with the Ford ignition . Thanks
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  2. 2nd February 2014, 09:44 AM #2
    pannawonica
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    mine went the same way and I failed to proceed.
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  3. 2nd February 2014, 10:07 AM #3
    flywheel au
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    Defender Puma push button ignition

    Hi, having a Puma what can I expect to go wrong with the ignition switch. Surely replacing one switch with another would be a sidewise step.
    My 1947 MG TC has probably the simplest system with a pull knob connected to a cable in turn connected to the starter switch mounted on the starter motor.Probably a bit outmoded now though.
    Jim
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  4. 2nd February 2014, 03:52 PM #4
    jimr1
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    Hi , even if you go down that road and put a push start you will still need a key to unlock your steering , also to turn you ignition on and off . In saying that you can fit a push start , you will need the divert the start wires through the push button ,leaving the key as is .
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  5. 1st September 2014, 11:38 PM #5
    Drewgray Guest

    Thanks

    Hi guys sorry for the late reply but thanks for your opinions .
    I have just replaced the ignition barrel along with my rear diff twice now! running a ford 9 inch in the rear should be fine now and also had to replace the turbo I wish they just gave me the car in a box and let me put it together myself I don't know how the British ever won the war !
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  6. 2nd September 2014, 11:36 AM #6
    MLD's Avatar
    MLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drewgray View Post
    I don't know how the British ever won the war !
    They didn't. The Italians were confused what side to back and the Germans gave up by killing their own.

    There is a significant bragging difference between a KO (or even a TKO) and your opponent throwing in the towel (or my favourite, the Bruce Seldon dive).

    Interesting you went with a Ford 9". Did you change the housing? I thought the P38 diff housing was about 8" or equivalent to a toyota housing. Either way a 9" will solve your problems.

    MLD
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  7. 2nd September 2014, 01:51 PM #7
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    rick130
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLD View Post

    Interesting you went with a Ford 9". Did you change the housing? I thought the P38 diff housing was about 8" or equivalent to a toyota housing. Either way a 9" will solve your problems.

    MLD
    The Rover and P38 crown wheels are around 8.5" in diameter.
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  8. 2nd September 2014, 02:08 PM #8
    PAT303
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    A couple of puffs of graphite lube fixes ignition switches. Pat
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  9. 3rd September 2014, 08:49 AM #9
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    A couple of puffs of graphite lube fixes ignition switches. Pat
    Theyre past using that at most locksmiths now - Inox is the go
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  10. 4th September 2014, 08:26 AM #10
    BilboBoggles
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    Actually there is a known fault on many 2009 era ignition locks/switches. I had my 2009 ignition replaced under warranty after it left my wife stranded in the middle of a busy service station forecourt owned by a annoyed italian who hates land rovers and happened to have a forklift handy... Luckily the damned thing started after 45 minutes of jiggling. Still took a few weeks of arguing with Land Rover to get them to fix, the temporary solution being to leave the key in the ignition and not lock the ignition when turning off.

    I think in my case it was the actual switch as there is a little catch that stops you starting the engine twice after power on, that broke and jammed up the lock. At the time there were several other people with the same issue and I think there is a technical note somewhere on this. No amount of lubrication helped with this.
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