Thread: Lockers

Originally Posted by dullbird

im talking about Eaton tru tracks and full lockers. they fit the front because thats standard Rover I thought but I didnt think they had anything to fit the p38 rover type rear

Lou, Harrop have an e-locker for the Salisbury, P38 and rover diff. I went through the process a month ago when I contemplated buying a 130 Salisbury to fit a rear e-locker. I opted for the swap from the 110 because of cost.

I'm not sure about the tru-trac for the P38 but I'd be surprised they didn't develop one. They have the sizing for the e-locker and there is a market in the US in the P38 RR.

ProjectDirector. I warned you against taking my experience as a reflection of the product. Mine was an anomaly. Furthermore if you find your locker faulty it will be evident from the outset and Harrop will replace it without question. I only mentioned it so people can identify the problem and act to remedy it.

The cause of the fault (lazy spring) would allow the same thing to happen in an air locker. What was happening is the hydraulic pressure when the oil was cold pushed against the dog engaging the locker. The spring didn't have the resistance to push it back out. The ARB relies on a spring to push the dog from its engagement so a lazy spring could give the same effect in an air locker.

If you want to save a few bucks consider a ATB/tru-trac for the front and a locker or ATB for the rear. The ATB will work well with your TC. Having had a 110 locked in the rear and ATB in the front you can go a long way before getting stuck. That said there are times you will get stuck no matter what you have in your arsenal. An ATB will not ever lock up so you will never have that fear.

MLD

Originally Posted by MLD

Lou, Harrop have an e-locker for the Salisbury, P38 and rover diff. I went through the process a month ago when I contemplated buying a 130 Salisbury to fit a rear e-locker. I opted for the swap from the 110 because of cost.



I'm not sure about the tru-trac for the P38 but I'd be surprised they didn't develop one. They have the sizing for the e-locker and there is a market in the US in the P38 RR.



ProjectDirector. I warned you against taking my experience as a reflection of the product. Mine was an anomaly. Furthermore if you find your locker faulty it will be evident from the outset and Harrop will replace it without question. I only mentioned it so people can identify the problem and act to remedy it.



The cause of the fault (lazy spring) would allow the same thing to happen in an air locker. What was happening is the hydraulic pressure when the oil was cold pushed against the dog engaging the locker. The spring didn't have the resistance to push it back out. The ARB relies on a spring to push the dog from its engagement so a lazy spring could give the same effect in an air locker.



If you want to save a few bucks consider a ATB/tru-trac for the front and a locker or ATB for the rear. The ATB will work well with your TC. Having had a 110 locked in the rear and ATB in the front you can go a long way before getting stuck. That said there are times you will get stuck no matter what you have in your arsenal. An ATB will not ever lock up so you will never have that fear.



MLD

Thanks MLD y
You have now cleared the air. I am novice when it comes to lockers and am now learning a bit more. I have some time to save for them and want to put the best product so I can get ready for an expedition with my brother in law up in the Pilbara region (long way from Melbourne). As you know 4wds are a big money pit and and trying to control myself, I will only spend money where it is necessary. What is ATB by the way?

I have a Trutrac on the front and no locker on the back. It's been great for sand and bush driving. A locker is required for steep hill climbs.

Originally Posted by ProjectDirector

Thanks MLD y
You have now cleared the air. I am novice when it comes to lockers and am now learning a bit more. I have some time to save for them and want to put the best product so I can get ready for an expedition with my brother in law up in the Pilbara region (long way from Melbourne). As you know 4wds are a big money pit and and trying to control myself, I will only spend money where it is necessary. What is ATB by the way?

ATB = automatic torque biasing diff = basically an LSD but through an arrangement of gears rather than the traditional clutch pack configuration.

I've got one in the front of my 110 Puma - works well and works all the time (as opposed to an air actuated locker which only works when you press the button) but isn't the equal of a full locker once you get wheels in the air.

For me an ATB front and a air locking rear seems to be the right balance - but I'm still waiting on the rear locker for my current rig (it's on the 'to do' list for the Cape).

Many thanks guys, good to learn from your experiences

If you put in ATB in the front you can get away with the standard CV's and axles. If you lock the front you have the additional cost of HD CV's, axles and flanges. I'd budget $3,700 to $3,800 (fitted) for a front e-locker, HD CV's and HD axles, flanges. Not much cheaper for the air locker when you include the compressor. Budget $2,800 for a rear e-locker with axles and flanges (fitted). You can fit an ATB for $1,000 to $1,100 and it's set and forget. I'm not a fan of detroit lockers but that is an option for the rear. Still need axles and flanges (say $800 ish).

All depends on what type of driving you do. I drove the hardest of the tracks up Cape York without wishing for more traction aids with the ATB/rear locker. Sometimes taking a different line is all that is required.

MLD

Originally Posted by MLD

If you put in ATB in the front you can get away with the standard CV's and axles. If you lock the front you have the additional cost of HD CV's, axles and flanges. I'd budget $3,700 to $3,800 (fitted) for a front e-locker, HD CV's and HD axles, flanges. Not much cheaper for the air locker when you include the compressor. Budget $2,800 for a rear e-locker with axles and flanges (fitted). You can fit an ATB for $1,000 to $1,100 and it's set and forget. I'm not a fan of detroit lockers but that is an option for the rear. Still need axles and flanges (say $800 ish).

All depends on what type of driving you do. I drove the hardest of the tracks up Cape York without wishing for more traction aids with the ATB/rear locker. Sometimes taking a different line is all that is required.

MLD

Interesting point of view MLD.
Even with my standard hilux I had I did some crazy things but now I bought the Defender not for extreme work but to do touring and seeing more of Australia. Yes I did try some hard stuff only because my sons wanted to have fun for the last 10 months but that is where it ends because I don't want to destroy it and keep throwing money fixing it.
I am only looking at lockers for some extra flexibility and not to put the vehicle under a lot of stress.


Cheers

Just my 2 cents worth. Have had 2 previous vehicles with air lockers and had issues ranging from failed I rings to air lobes pulled out. Am currently on my 2nd vehicle with e-lockers and have a single rear locker on a 2010 110 wagon. Nil failures to report and I am happy that should the activation wire be broken it can be quickly be repaired trackside without leaving me stranded. This is just my experience but I can certainly recommend the product and confirm its availability on p38 diffs.