Thread: fire wall sound proofing

the boat places have a foil backed foam,

I have used 2 layers; marine carpet laid on the harder 10mm foam that you buy in fit-together squares at outdoor doors (obviously cut & trimmed to fit)

cheap, easily pulled out to dry and wash the floor out, etc

I used a product called e-therm which is the foil blanket type material used under iron roofing. I snavelled it from a building site and bought a roll of 50mmx 50m alfoil tape from bunnings for $15 and have so far done the whole front interior of the 130. I had carpet in there which I used as a template and have found it works really well. I cut a slit for the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I used to find with the window down I would get a current of hot air from under the pedals drawn through the fire wall making it very uncomfortable.




I then put the crumbly mat back over everything and the carpet. It took about 12 hours to complete but I also did a few other jobs including adjusting the bias plate on the gearbox and the switches for the door that turn on the interior light.



Adjusting the two 10mm bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock to get the H Pattern back in the gearstick instead of having to stir it around to find a gear. worked a treat.

Originally Posted by Gillie

I used a product called e-therm which is the foil blanket type material used under iron roofing. I snavelled it from a building site and bought a roll of 50mmx 50m alfoil tape from bunnings for $15 and have so far done the whole front interior of the 130. I had carpet in there which I used as a template and have found it works really well. I cut a slit for the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I used to find with the window down I would get a current of hot air from under the pedals drawn through the fire wall making it very uncomfortable. I then put the crumbly mat back over everything and the carpet. It took about 12 hours to complete but I also did a few other jobs including adjusting the bias plate on the gearbox and the switches for the door that turn on the interior light. Adjusting the two 10mm bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock to get the H Pattern back in the gearstick instead of having to stir it around to find a gear. worked a treat.

How does it handle being wet?

Being wet won't worry this product. You could and I may apply it to underside and firewall in engine bay yet. It will not absorb water.

That was going to be my question I am paranoid about material that absorbs water as it WILL lead to rust. Did you just glue it to the metal ?

If one doesn't access to (what I'm sure was surplus) from a building site, where can the material be purchased and for how much ?


I'm also interested to know exactly how the screws need to be adjusted to bring the H pattern back. Are you able to supply any more detail?

I guess the only problem with a product that does not absorb water is it will still trap water between it and the bulkhead. The factory mats on my Defender were almost always "wet", up until I put some rubber strip matting - the type they use around pools with bars in a cross pattern, under it. This allows the floor to dry out and stops the rust but you can't call it sound proofing at all.

Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more

I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

seeya,
shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more

I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

seeya,
shane L.

Looks very similar to the stuff I used.