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Thread: Wiring accessories into a puma

  1. #1
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    Wiring accessories into a puma

    Recently I've been wiring accessories into my 2013 defender but find it such a pain in the @ss as there just isn't enough room or places to run everything...accessories so far are: led light bar , led work lights , spotlights , spotlight outlet , UHF , phone charger/long range Ariel for phone charger , external power for fridge...
    The main problem is having the battery under the seat having to run wires from there under the car and then back up into the steering column and then trying to pull them threw it ends up a bloody mission to wire in 1 little accessory simply because there's very few places you can actually enter the cab...the wiring for lights on the roof has me stumped on how to get the wires upto the roof without looking terrible and making it reasonably water tight...
    I have an idea I am playing with and that running 2 main supply wires out under my bonnet to a fuse box and running everything from that however there's still the pain of getting the wires into the cab behind the instrument panel.

    What's everyone else done?

  2. #2
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    Recently I've been wiring accessories into my 2013 defender but find it such a pain in the @ss as there just isn't enough room or places to run everything...accessories so far are: led light bar , led work lights , spotlights , spotlight outlet , UHF , phone charger/long range Ariel for phone charger , external power for fridge...
    The main problem is having the battery under the seat having to run wires from there under the car and then back up into the steering column and then trying to pull them threw it ends up a bloody mission to wire in 1 little accessory simply because there's very few places you can actually enter the cab...the wiring for lights on the roof has me stumped on how to get the wires upto the roof without looking terrible and making it reasonably water tight...
    I have an idea I am playing with and that running 2 main supply wires out under my bonnet to a fuse box and running everything from that however there's still the pain of getting the wires into the cab behind the instrument panel.

    What's everyone else done?
    I put a fuse panel in the bat box and one in the exbox - still a pain to run things though.

    I think Cruisers have a remote fuse box under the bonnet like what you're contemplating?

  3. #3
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    switch box

    Hi,

    Have you seen the dash in the picture?
    Made by Raptor in the UK.

    All the switches are in one place. You could bring one large supply wire to a fuse box in the new bash and split every thing from there.

    Best bet from there is onto the inside of the gear box/prop shaft chanel and up the pillars.

    Hope this helps.

    Phil.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    You can get a little gadget from jay car that plugs into a blade fuse holder and has a fuse to replace the original fuse and another beside it with a short lead attached to connect your accessories to.

  5. #5
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    I've bought a multi fuse box/holder from jaycar. The intention is to run a single power supply from the battery to the fuse box which will be a source of power for power outlets and maybe the HF.

    The fuse box will be located in a ply Hm made box that sits under center cubby box.
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  6. #6
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    Thanks guys
    I just went and bought a 1-10 way fuse box and am going to mount it on the fire wall I think....it will save having to run into the battery box every time I get another accessory..the other annoying thing is the standard LR battery does not have decent connection points for extra positive and negative connections.
    I am thinking of also running a large negative wire out beside the external fuse box and connecting it to a terminal strip so that I can bring all my negatives back to that rather than to the chassis (in particular wiring for lights)

  7. #7
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    AndyG is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    I was thinking of getting an Ex box with fuse box inside, hopefully there is enough space on the front fascia for a row of switches, maybe even a few on the rear for appropriate items such as cabin light or outside illumination.

  8. #8
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    I was thinking of getting an Ex box with fuse box inside, hopefully there is enough space on the front fascia for a row of switches, maybe even a few on the rear for appropriate items such as cabin light or outside illumination.

  9. #9
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    You can get dual input fuse boxes from vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk so you can have ignition switched and constant power in the same fuse box. You'd run a 100A relay and fuse the supplies obviously and you can also run all your earths back to the box as it has provisions for that also. That's how I did my RRC and is how I will do my Defender when I get around to it.

    Make sure you use appropriate sized cable, and if it's going to be a long run, account for voltage drop. I'd use no less than 6B&S for a 100A fuse box.

  10. #10
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyG View Post
    I was thinking of getting an Ex box with fuse box inside, hopefully there is enough space on the front fascia for a row of switches, maybe even a few on the rear for appropriate items such as cabin light or outside illumination.
    Plenty of room on/in an exbox to do that.

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