Master cylinder has given up...
time to replace it...
or at least hone it and reseal it.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Last week I had my clutch slave replaced and since then I have noticed a substantial fluid leak that pools below my clutch pedal in the footwell. I'm assuming the leak is coming from the master cylinder.
Does anyone have any ideas or know what could be causing this leak? Easy fix? Could I need a new master cylinder as well??
Thanks!
Master cylinder has given up...
time to replace it...
or at least hone it and reseal it.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Not uncommon for the master cylinder to fail as that's now the weakest link after your new slave
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I recently done my slave cylinder. I have been topping up since it went in Uzbekistan back in May!Held up fine towing too.
G
Sirocco Overland |
I had a leaking one, replaced it with a new factory one, it was knackered too! So then I got a s/s sleave put in and that has lasted for 10 years or there abouts (touch wood)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I'd really recommend getting your new master cylinder sleeved with stainless before you put it in. I had a bad run of 3-4 masters failing within 3-9 months of each other. It's been 18 months since i replaced it with a sleeved one and no issues so far. I'd also recommend taking notice of adjusting the pedal height to spec.
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
Fred Smith in Bayswater (VIC) keeps the st/st sleeved master cylinders in stock. You just have to re-use your original pushrod.
About $120 last time I got one.
Any decent brake place could get yours st/st sleeved, most have to send them away so you need to factor in the delay.
Several threads around on replacing with st/st sleeved.
Stainless bore clutch master cylinder?
Clutch Master Cylinder - long term solution?
master cylinder
You can do it without removing the pedal box, a bit fiddly and having an assistant helps.
I think it was Fred that told me :-
Defender - getting the sound deadening in & out around the pedals is too messy so remove the master cylinder.
Series - remove the pedal box.
Best of luck,
Colin
Last edited by gromit; 13th March 2014 at 08:45 PM. Reason: links added
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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