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Thread: Help! Front diff issues

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Perth WA
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    So, getting the car towed home today....Still have to make room in my shed for it , but once I have got that done I shall endeavour to find out what has gone wrong and what the damage is. Having never worked on the drive train on this, or any other, car before, any words of advice from the wise people on the forum will be greatly appreciated...

    Questions - what tools etc do I need?
    What should I be looking out for?
    Is it a one person job or will I need another pair of hands?
    I don't have replacement parts as yet, figure I will find out what is wrong first, but whilst I am working on it are there any other things that I should replace/service etc at the time?

    Any step by step guides/instructions that people know of would be great. I do have the worshop manuals for the car, and somewhere I have the Rave CD floating around - somewhere.

    I'm kind of thinking that if I'm going to the trouble of pulling the front diff, I may as well look at checking the whole drive train whilst the car is off the road. I have a rear ball joint that needs replacing - got the replacement part, just haven't had the time or inclination to change til now. Suggestions?

    Thanks in advance
    Brett

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
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    To get the diff center out you need to pull the front axles.
    2 ways to do that, either undo the swivel ball bolts that attach them to the diff housing and pull the whole assembly out (apparently damn heavy and I haven't done it that way myself), or on each side remove drive flange, brake caliper, hub, stub, and pull out the CV and axle.
    If its been a while since its seen any love then I'd take the second option and inspect/clean all the bits while you are at it (and go a little bit further and rebuild the swivels while you are there).

    Once you're at that stage, remove the front prop shaft completely, and then remove nuts around the diff center flange and pull the center out. Center is heavy-ish (20kg++), and its probably a good idea to leave a couple of nuts on the studs while you break the gasket free rather than having it pop off suddenly and land on you.

    A-arm balljoint involves a bit of force, large hammer or press and likely some cursing. There should be plenty of tutorials around on that one.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #13
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    Oct 2008
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    Depending how much weight you can bench press, that diff center can be a bit heavy. I used a trolley jack to do a semi controlled descent onto the concrete driveway. Just be aware you don't want to drop it on yourself.

    I pulled the swivel housings - they are heavy - but a trolley jack worked really well. Whilst you have the housings off you can replace the swivel seal with ease in case it's leaking. Took me about 1 hour to pull the front diff this way (And I'm slow at this), and also meant I did not feel compelled to replace dodgy CV joints etc etc.

    The biggest pain was that I found a damaged UJ. Replacing that UJ took me 4 hours, and 2 UJ joints before I got one in without bending the needles.... I hate UJ's....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    This may sound obvious but if your going near the rear ball joint - clean the area first. If it's dirty up there (which it will be) it can be unpleasant. I thought if cleaned my vehicle before I rebushed it. Turned out I didn't know the meaning of clean.

    Ian.

  5. #15
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    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth WA
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    So I managed to get the diff out on the weekend, considering I hadn't done anything like this before it was reasonably straight forward, but not without it's fair share of cursing and swearing. Turns out I have destroyed the two outer bearings - first pic shows one side where the bearings should be, second pic shows the pieces I pulled out of the bottom of the diff housing






    The bearing where the diff connects up to the UJ on the propshaft is quite loose with a fair amount of play, so I expect that was about to fail. Not sure whether I should just replace the bearings, or swap out the whole diff - what have people done before? Am I likely to have done any damage elsewhere? I drained the oil from the centre diff and apart from one small (2-3mm) piece of metal, there was no filings or any other pieces of metal.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Geelong, VIC
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    Its done a fair bit of work - just bury it with honors
    Likely the cross pin is also well worn, along with the holes in the carrier.
    A decent second hand center will see you right for a long time and be a lot less hassle and likely cheaper than a set of bearings.

    The drain plug in the housing is not right at the bottom, so any crap will collect and not drain out so give it a good clean out prior to fitting the center.
    Although by the looks of the debris you pulled out, there probably wasn't much oil to drain. The gunk around the lumps looks like grease - not oil

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  7. #17
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    Jul 2013
    Location
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    Spot on Steve - there was sweet FA oil in the diff - not sure if this was the cause of the problem, or if something else led to the bearings failing

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1066 View Post
    Spot on Steve - there was sweet FA oil in the diff - not sure if this was the cause of the problem, or if something else led to the bearings failing
    I'd bet my left nut on it being the cause. Looking back at your original post saying the diff was steaming when you stopped, and the remains of your bearings mixed with a tiny amount of oil confirms it for me.
    I'd say its been like that for a fair while too.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

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