Thread: Broken bolt removal from rear hub

Been there, done that....

Unless you are towing something, I think you will get back to Sydney OK, assuming you are considering just another 1-2 days. I discovered that all 5 of mine had snapped inside the hub and I suspect it had been gradually failing over several months.

I tried using ezy-outs to get the snapped bolts out, and was successful with three of the five. The last two were seized and i was at risk of snapping the ezy-outs.

I ended up replacing the hub. It separates from the disk and is held with bolts. I did the job one night after work, a few hours.

It it fails terminally, you will just lose drive. The wheel should not come off.

It's funny how it is usually the passenger side that fails. Must be more shockload on that side.

Do you have a locker in the rear Ben?
If so, even if you break the remaining bolts you will be able to retain some drive by engaging the rear locker and have drive to the remaining good flange.
I'm pretty sure the hubs are the same front and rear, so your other option is to swap a front and rear hub if the bolts break. Front and rear discs are different, so you would also need to swap the discs.

Pretty sure the hubs are the same as late D1's if you are chasing some - but you'd need to confirm. Should be cheap and easy to get.

Steve

hubs and brake rotors are seperate, but you have to remove them both to seperate them (and I dont advise doing it as the rotor gives you some purchase and a large surface to mount the thing in a drill press or drill mill with)

you might get them out with rigid extractors or a set of easy outs but if you get slightly off center you may make things worse, get the bearings out and clean it all up well and use plenty of heat from a hot air gun to warm the lot up to around 300 degrees and if you use a left hand drill you might find it comes out by itself) IF the rigids or easy outs are flexing and not moving or worse stripping into the remnants of the bolt stop early before you break them.

you might get lucky and find someone with an EDM that can spark erode the bolt for you.

There is one last trick that involves some fairly heavy abuse with an arc welder and some select rod sizes but before it got to that I'd just drill and helicoil. It can be done with a small mag mount drill on the rotor skewed over to get it in line with the hub bolt hole if you use a long enough drill bit..

(stuff a rag into the bearing space first or better yet go at it with a sacraficial drive hub that you can affort to oversize the hole on.)

paying someone to goto that much effort is probably more than a second hand set of hubs is worth.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

As I am traveling I will have to pay someone to do it.
I just don't have those sorts of tools.
So maybe a second hand one will be the go.

I'm not having much luck with the 130 atm.
It seems I'm having minor issue after issue. I guess all the rough roads have been taking their toll. Luckily nothing has stoped me and I have always been able to bodge it up untill I can get to a major town and get it fixed propperly.

Thanks
Ben

If you're paying more than $50 for a used hub then I'd say you're being ripped. If you can get one with decent bearings in it then just give them a grease, throw in a new hub seal and bolt on the disc off your old hub.

If you put a few layers of food wrap across the top of the brake reservoir and jam a roll up a piece of the same to poke into the end of the brake pipe when you take off the caliper you'll likely get away with just a quick bleed afterwards.

Surely there must be a member in Sydney that's got a D1 hub lying around that could come your way for a few beers......

Steve

IF you're limping up this way and no-one else wants to come to the party I happen to have a set on axles...

My parts supplier says ~$100 for the hub second hand delivered to the sydney area with a 24 hour lead time. The replacement bolts are about $3 for 5 from a decent bolt supplier and you need a $10 tube (15g) of atv blue if you dont want to spring the couple of bucks for a gasket. I've forgotten the price of the hub seal but if you're running greased bearings you can usually get away with reusing it as a quick fix. (from the top of my head rtc3511 is the double lip seal you need with oil hubs)

HUB2.jpg

brake flange bolts are a 12 point socket, loctite 262/263 75nm
flange bolts loctite 243/242 65nm.
caliper bolts again 12 point socket loctite 262/263 80nm

field method for wheel bearing/hub nuts

1. tighten inner hub nut to 50nm,
2. rotate hub retorque inner hub nut to 50nm, repeat until rotating the hub does not upset nut torque.
3. back off nut 1/2 turn, tighten to 5nm.
4. install lock tab
5. install outer hub nut, torque to 50nm
6. fold locktab over one flat of each nut (try to use a 120 degree spread from the locktab locating flat and each nut)

Okay so have booked in with Daniel at mulgo.
Called him about something else and we got talking about my issues and he said he could help.
I'm gotting the130 looked over to sort out all the little problems I have so we will be all good for cape york, accross to darwin and then back through central Aus.

Will a D1 hub fit the salisbury diff?