Thread: PUMA brakes fail rego check ........

Originally Posted by landiematt

How many defenders has the mechanic driven.
Matt

Probably none.

How bad do they need to be to fail?

My LWB Series III with no vacuum boost used to pass every year and many of us know that Series II brakes are nothing to get excited about.

Originally Posted by chopper

Get a second opinion as in get a rego check done elsewhere and don't tell them that you have already had one done. Only cost you another $36.40.

Not as simple as driving away and going down the road to another mechanic. The mechanic is required to log the rego check and any defects found into the RTA portal and you can't get it passed until that defect is cleared. What i'm not sure about is if the second mechanic can clear the defect or only the first mechanic. It was to stop devious minds shopping around for a mechanic to pass rego if it failed elsewhere. If the logic was to stop devious minds i suspect that the defect needs to be cleared by the first mechanic. When i had problems in the past with rego check (usually the wheel spacers that i didn't remove for the check) the mechanic and I had a chat about how i hypothetically went home to remove the spacers and came back to be approved.

Interesting you failed the brake test, mum's partner had a 1923 Hudson that had shocking brakes and that passed rego (not historic rego) year in year out. The mechanic did say he wouldn't pass it next year. He might had done a bench test on the last rego check. The old girl was sold on the fear of the investment required for the needed makeover.

MLD

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

or he had a brain fart and put the test machine in the vehicle backwards.....

Seen that a couple of times now.

Usually tho that just results in them looking at the print out after the test drive looking quizically at the result face palming turning the machine around and doing another quick lap.

it is interesting seeing a +ve G reading on a brake test result

If you had passed with the machine backwards... well, that makes a quick defender

Both of my Defenders (Tdi and Td5) had to have their brake boosters replaced as they develop fine cracks in the housing near the bolts that the master cylinder bolts to - the brakes gradually lose power as air leaks in until you can no longer lock up the wheels.

Could it be the same thing?

Fraser

From what I remember hearing, the required performance depends on the age of the vehicle and the category (i.e. passenger, light goods etc.). My bloke tells me that my 2A easily passes, and the bar is quite easy for it. The measured parameters are deceleration and pedal pressure.

John

I didn't see from the thread if you've tested the booster. Switch the engine off, and pump the brake pedal - you shoudl feel it get progressively harder until it's almost rock solid. This uses up the vacuum reserve. Then with your foot on the brake pedal start the engine. As the vacuum pump builds up vacuum your pedal should sink quite a bit and become much more spongy. It's normal for a ABS defender (assuming this is a 110) to have quite a spongy feeling pedal.

If that all works - then can you get the ABS to kick in by braking as hard as you can from about 60kmh on tarmac - if you can then there are no issues with your brakes. You should feel the pedal pulsate heavily and it should pull up square. The ABS won't kick in if the brakes cannot lock up - so if you cannot get the ABS to go off then you have brake issues that need to be fixed.


I had not realised how god awful my TD5 (Same as a puma) brakes had become until I got my new PUMA. Scared the living **** out of me when I towed a 1 ton trailer that had no overrun brakes! The cause was awful pads and worn out rotors at the limit of their wear. A good brake service with new Original Land Rover pads, new rotors and the old TD5 defender brakes better than the new PUMA....

Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

I didn't see from the thread if you've tested the booster. Switch the engine off, and pump the brake pedal - you shoudl feel it get progressively harder until it's almost rock solid. This uses up the vacuum reserve. Then with your foot on the brake pedal start the engine. As the vacuum pump builds up vacuum your pedal should sink quite a bit and become much more spongy. It's normal for a ABS defender (assuming this is a 110) to have quite a spongy feeling pedal.

If that all works - then can you get the ABS to kick in by braking as hard as you can from about 60kmh on tarmac - if you can then there are no issues with your brakes. You should feel the pedal pulsate heavily and it should pull up square. The ABS won't kick in if the brakes cannot lock up - so if you cannot get the ABS to go off then you have brake issues that need to be fixed.


I had not realised how god awful my TD5 (Same as a puma) brakes had become until I got my new PUMA. Scared the living **** out of me when I towed a 1 ton trailer that had no overrun brakes! The cause was awful pads and worn out rotors at the limit of their wear. A good brake service with new Original Land Rover pads, new rotors and the old TD5 defender brakes better than the new PUMA....

Thanks BB,

I tested the booster as discribed by you and it seemed to do as you said.

Took it out and there is no way the brakes will lock up at 50to 60k's, but it stopped quickly. So not able to test the ABS. The ABS warning light on the dash is not lit up.

How much vacume should the pump put out. Mine will suck your finger tip into it but it's not super strong.

I bleed all four corner this morning, but there was no air in the lines.