You do know you need to trim one of the hoses for RHD vehicles; I hope...
Stop the clock!
BAS silicone turbo hoses arrived this morning.
Left the UK Thurs night (like mid-night our time) and arrived at my work on Tuesday 10am. Can't complain about that!
Did some measurments of the BAS silicone hoses. Got some T-bar clamps for the hoses that I had left over in the parts box that were destined for my 300zx.
I've currently got some rubbing of the turbo hose on the steering uni joint, it's nothing major, but I will attempt to make it right before fitting the BAS unit.
I've actually got the 'turbo recall' pipe and bracket for my car. When I went in for the recall, the parts were not installed, as I have a metal hard pipe between intercooler and turbo compressor outlet.
I'm still not sure if this is factory...
As for the turbo hoses... the ID's and OD's of the silicone hoses are all over the place... not by design, but due to the weird sizing of the LR parts they attach to.
Rough intercooler hose measurements which might get someone out of a bind one day (all measurements are the hose Inside Diameters):
45mm ID hose for turbo compresor outlet
50mm ID hose for intercooler piping into IC and out of the IC.
IC hose connection to post-cooled hard pipe (LHS) is 50mm
Elbow is 50mm on one side, 60mm on other (not sure which end goes to the throttle body- prob the 600 ID).
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
You do know you need to trim one of the hoses for RHD vehicles; I hope...
Yeh, and you're gunna need some elbow grease (The euphemism for powerful Mandraulics, not actual grease) to fit that elbow.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Yes tombie, the product listing with BAS mentioned that a slight trim would be required.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Tombie,
...Whats up with the Avataris that for real!
Vehicle is operational once more.
This afternoon I invested a whole 30 MINUTES replacing the buggered intercooler hose. A good 5 minutes of that was cobbling together the correct sockets to get the old hose clamps off (who the hell uses a 7mm hex nut on a hose clamp?! what a silly size!).
Got the BAS silicone intercooler hose fitted. Found some T-bolt clamps from the 300zx parts box AKA 'slush fund', and they worked a treat.
Positive note, NOT A SINGLE DROP of oil in the intercooler hoses. So maybe Tombie was right about the stock PCV system working well
FUBAR
It's time for another...
TOOL REVIEW
Hose picks
Hose picks are pretty useful when working with this kind of thing. They are a real knuckle saver with old crusty coolant hoses, which my 300zx is full of. They can usually be had for 30 clams or thereabouts at decent parts shops. Great for ripping off old hoses, breaking the vacuum (or corrosion) seal of the hoses where it attaches to the part it is joined to, and great for just generally being badass.
While they were not necessary for the job I had, It does make it easy to get the hose started, which would involve a screwdriver, and a bit of swearing otherwise.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Hi Mitch.
When I replaced the same hose on my truck last week, it took for ever to fit the new Silicone hose, BUT, I did have a little pool of oil in the intercooler hose outlet. (Probably a few drops). Mine is a new (20,000 old) up rated intercooler, and I didn't check for deposits in the old hose. Either way, there was Oil there, so interesting finding on your 90.
Ken
There was a light mist, just enough for a smudge on a clean finger... but no pooling. That's to be expected, but not as much as I've seen in other vehicles, where is pools or pours out.
***
I did the oil change today.
Very easy job. Albeit a little messy.
It's in the low to mid 40's here today, so I took the car for a literal 'lap around the block' and it was up to operating temp
Made this contraption to divert oil to the drip pan
Sits on the drag link, and drains oil out the little nick I cut into the bottom foot of the bottle
My coke bottle engineering is on point.
Shame my ability to remove the air vent plug from the oil drip pan game sucks.
As the oil flowed out, it flowed over all over the driveway. I use this style of oil drain pan, which is good, but if the pouring spout lid is not undone, the oil flows in very slowly.
I drained just under 6 litres, and probably had the remaining 300ml on the driveway.
Filled to just over 6.3L, its in all the right places on the dipstick, so that's a positive.
Also fitted the stahlbus oil drain valve.
***
In other news, I'm chasing one of these:
I will probably do both sides, and get all new hardware for them, as the nylock's on it are shagged, and one of the bolts was well and truly munched. The wera joker ratchet wrench made easy work of the seized fastener though, I punished it that hard, it was hot to the touch after I was done with it.
Looking for new ones- any hints on local suppliers?
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Hi Mitch. Tombie may be able to enlighten us on this but, I've been told that as the Bearings in the Turbo require high flow, high pressure lubrication to keep them cool, the seals weep a bit and the oil in the charged are system is the result.
This could be absolute crap that I'm talking here but it has a ring of credibility to me. If it's true, I'd be more worried about the lack of oil than the presence of it.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
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