Thread: Steepish inclines and 'faulty' brakes???

The adjustment is done with a 6mm allen key top rear of TC held in with Loctite
assuming same as earlier models

AM

first up the Tcase jumped out of gear. that usually happens when the linkages are fouled or not aligned correctly if you have selected your range properly and the lever has "locked" into position. normally it will happen as the transmission torques around in the tunnel as you power on and off. dealing with this has been talked about above.

the reason you couldnt stop.

you have ABS. unless all 4 wheels stop at the same time its designed to stop you from sliding giving you steerability, in the kind of situation you were in if you value locking up the wheels to try and skid to a halt over the steerability and traction that ABS retains for you (Static Friction VS dynamic friction) the only quick choice you have is to simply turn the ignition off. The killer here is that if you do this while panicing you may turn it too far and lock the steering wheel. As for the faulty sensor one sensor giving a dud reading doesnt stop the system from working but it DOES throw up the system fault light. The ABS will still work on the wheels that are giving good data. Of course if you've lost grip laterally, all bets are off, good luck.

The non legal solution is to replace the ABS master fuse with a Fuse and a remote switch that you can turn off on demand.

In the TD5's you could disable ABS/TC by rapidly pumping the brakes with the accessories on but the engine off. so if you were approaching a spot where you thought you would rather go it without the ABS/TC you had a way of disabling it prior to entering or attempting the obstacle. It might work with the ford but I doubt it.

Whats really going to kill you is trying to do the stall start in the normal as taught manner because, on paper, you cant stall the ford its got "stall control"


FWIW. The way I teach the Tcase change is.

If moving (and safe to do so)

bring the vehicle to a near halt, depress the clutch, select netural on the gearbox, select neutral then low (2 actions) on the Tcase, select the appropriate gear for the speed you are doing (usually first/reverse, occasionally second if you have picked up speed) maintain effort on the Tcase lever as you lift up on the clutch.

If stopped.

Select neutral on the gearbox, select Low on the Tcase, depress the clutch, put the main gear box in your desired gear, maintain effort on the tcase lever and ease up the clutch (release the applicable brake as requried)

Someone please tell me if I'm wrong; but the pumas run the lt230q transfer case?

If this is the case, the locking mechanism holds it in low and high range with a ball detend, to which you can adjust the load on the spring which affects the amount it is held in. It was a very common complaint to landrover that the transfer case lever was hard to move, and I've read on the defender td5 landrover reduced the pressure on the spring - but maybe too much.

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correct lt230Q, turned and tilted...

the turn might also account for the offset on the linkages that helps pop it out of low but thats just WAG and speculation, I havent had an issue with it in the ones I've driven.


IME the reason why the lever was hard to move in most cases was because the linkages had siezed up.

The whole lot is a stick in a bucket of bolts.Why I converted to 2 separate sticks a bit agricultural but works

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

The whole lot is a stick in a bucket of bolts.Why I converted to 2 separate sticks a bit agricultural but works

Throw a couple of gears, bearings and a shaft or two and I believe you have the basic design spec bried for the landrover gearbox.

You forgot the oil leaks

Thank you everyone!

I'll definitely go and get my mechanic to look at the transfer case selector shaft! I hope that is the problem and that I can get it sorted as I am now wary about any hill climbs which in time will ruin any sense of fun I get from a 4wd day out.. it's just not enjoyable wondering at which moment you're going to be careening downhill out of control..

And just for the record, at no time was I trying to change the gears from low ot high and vice versa.. the lever has simply jumped out of place on it's own. I am wondering if that might have something to do with the angle the car is on as it's never happened on flat ground before.

And thank you Blacknight for the info.. it confirms that what I was trying to do what correct.. except it didn't really have an effect and I suspect that is because the front brakes I believe apply about 70% to the rear's 30% and with the cars nose in the air and all the pressure on the rear brakes they really didn't have a chance at halting the car quickly. Does that make sense or am I talking dribble?..