Printable View
Cost me about $100 to replace the centre muffler with a hotdog when it finally fatigue cracked. noticeable change in performance on my calibrated test hill.
When removed for a clutch change it was just about fully packed with carbon. If doing it again I would just use a straight piece of pipe the same diameter as the inlet and outlet. Also needs a piece of split 4 inch pipe over the top as a heat shield to keep the floor temp down.
Cheers
Dromader, youre reading my mind mate, :eek:. I wanted to do something about the heat under the floor for 15 years , this might be might my big chance. I was thinking of getting some foil faced rock wool and covering the pipe from the engine bay to behind the passenger footwell. either that or putting a cover on it as you suggest. cheers simmo
Header wrap.
From the dump to the t/case.
Works well.
[edit] There are some pics here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130...aust-mods.html and the latest muffler mod from nearly twelve months ago here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1962140-post1501.html
Rick thanks for the photos a picture is worth a thousand words, that's a very neat job of exhaust pipe wrapping, there isn't much room in there beside the frame and gearboxes etc with the 3" pipe, so foil faced rock wool probably won't fit. I'l probably follow your example and go all the way past the transfer case etc, with the pipe wrapping tape. A hot exhaust close by must contribute to their high operating temperatures I used to use that stuff at work, I believe it's quite expensive. I might try to get some from an industrial supplier, the auto shop prices are steep. I'ts a nice job done on the 3" exhaust connection to the turbo. cheers simmo:)
I turned up a mandrel and flared some 2.5" tube up to 3" to make that dump.
Don't do what I did and re-use the OE flange, get a new one, it just makes life so much easier when welding.
I eventually nickel/bronze brazed it, too many inclusions/too much oxidation from age/use.
I throated the cast dump to 2.5" internally and port matched everything.
I don't believe it really makes a difference on a Tdi, but I just can't help myself.
The original flange/dump had a huge mig bead around the inside of it, it measured somewhere around a 4mm projection inside the pipe which looked like it'd restrict flow badly.
I ground it out and refitted prior to the 3" system and it made eff all difference in performance or EGT's.
Hello Allan,
Price will be $60.00/roll, 3mm x 50mm x 30m roll, plus $15.00 delivery.( in Brisbane)
Total: $75.00 (GST excluded) Regards, Brian Keenan <BKeenan@bellis.com.au>
Guys for your interest, I got this prompt reply from Brian at Bellis insulation products in Coopers plains Brisbane, they're prepared to sell by the one roll, which is good of them. 30 meters would be enough to do your exhaust pipe all the way past the transfer case. 60$ for 30 meters, Its very reasonable compared to the auto shops pricing. This stuff is suitable for service up to 500 degrees C, quite ok for after turbocharger of a diesel normally, short term exposure above that is Ok. Not for petrol V8, you need a higher grade = more expensive. cheers simmo:D
I do apologise for hijacking but figured that my question is exhaust related so why start a new thread..
I finished fitting the new VNT turbo last weekend but the exhaust flange on the turbo sits at a slightly different angle which is causing the first section of exhaust pipe to fowl on the transfer case mount, I have since purchased a 152x60mm stainless flexi joint to fit to the down pipe just after the turbo to get around this but I've noticed that there are the "bumps" on the inside that allow it to flex so my question is will that affect gas flow at all? Should I get a lined flex joint or am I stressing over nothing?!!
Relax Dozer, sounds like you've done a nice job, the fexi joint will reduce the stress on your pipe. Yes it will have some esoteric effect on the flow, the corrugations you describe on the inside diameter is about the same dia' as the exhaust pipe it's OK, plus the area of "pressure drop" is very short. Real world the effect is negligible. I'm thinking of doing he same on my car, using a donor Td-5 exhaust pipe. cheers simmo:)
I've read somewhere that header wrap must be absolutely tight and without any gaps, as the gaps release high heat that can actually cause the material to burn - at least, a loss adjuster reported that as the cause of an auto fire.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
When i had my pipe made i was told not to wrap it as it would crystalise/rust and to make a heat shield instead, any way i ended up wrapping the pipe back to the transfer case probably 18 months ago, when i was under the car a month ago there was rust blistering out from the end of the wrap so i have since removed, but still have the dump pipe wrapped, many here said the pipe wouldnt rust however i must state that my car goes very deep in mud and crap and i think the wrap absorbs alot that doesnt wash out[when i cut the wrap off it was full of crusty mud/dust]