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Thread: How to fix roof rib? - Defender

  1. #1
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    How to fix roof rib? - Defender

    OK... so every time I do something on this truck another little 'surprise' raises its head

    When I removed the roof lining I found this.....

    [/URL][/IMG]

    That is the centre longitudinal rib running from the middle cross rib to the front windscreen. (make sense).

    Anyway its obviously supposed to be a little bit more... attached.


    Would I just scrape out some of the old glue, and glue it back it with some sikaflex? (If so where would I get sikaflex from?)

    Please help.
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    OK... so every time I do something on this truck another little 'surprise' raises its head

    When I removed the roof lining I found this.....

    [IMG][/IMG]

    That is the centre longitudinal rib running from the middle cross rib to the front windscreen. (make sense).

    Anyway its obviously supposed to be a little bit more... attached.


    Would I just scrape out some of the old glue, and glue it back it with some sikaflex? (If so where would I get sikaflex from?)



    Please help.

    b u n n I n g s

  3. #3
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Is it not supposed to be screwed / welded to anything at the front? Just sikflexed to the roof panel?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  4. #4
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    Vlad, as 87county has said bunnings will have what you need, but there are many different types of Sikkafex. Look for one that is automotive grade and is an adhesive (for metal) rather than say a sealant.
    Also, get into that gap with some sandpaper wrapped around a flat stick and get the paint off first. Bare metal will be best to get a good bond.
    Don.

  5. #5
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    We can get It from Bunnings , and Masters down here , if you don't have those , most auto suppliers should have It ...

  6. #6
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    Since it is most probably aluminium you will be bonding to, if the paint is clean and has been bonded well from factory, it would be ok to sika to that. If you clean the paint off you will have to etch/prime the aluminium. Plumbers pvc cleaner/solvent works well.

    There is a difference between simply sticking to the surface and bonding to it.

    Sika make primers, but bunnings most probably wont have them on the shelf.

  7. #7
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    I think what Vlad might have been getting at, is should this not be more seriously attached? If it's just stuck with glue, what's the point of the rib?

  8. #8
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Indeed that is my latest question?

    Anyone have an answer?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    Indeed that is my latest question?

    Anyone have an answer?
    To reduce reverberation I would have thought.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post
    I think what Vlad might have been getting at, is should this not be more seriously attached? If it's just stuck with glue, what's the point of the rib?
    They glue planes together. .. seriously

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