Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 37

Thread: Before I drop the gearbox.....

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    236
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Unhappy Before I drop the gearbox.....

    Okay people, I need some advice. After having replaced both the clutch master and slave cylinders I still cannot get the car into gear when the engine is running, so before I try and tackle replacing the clutch, is there anything else it could be?

    The symptoms - cannot put the car (94 Defender 300tdi) into gear when the engine is running. Engine off, can select all gears regardless of whether I depress the clutch pedal or not. Can start it in gear, get a lurch and then car stalls if I take my foot off the clutch pedal.

    Things I have tried - replaced master and slave cylinder, and have bled the system several times, both via gravity and reverse bleeding. Clutch pedal is 140mm from floor, free play on pedal feels fine (about 5mm at pedal), pedal itself does not feel any different to how it always did. Will look at replacing the hose going from master to slave in the next day or so in case it is that (but I doubt it - I am getting rather disillusioned with the car at the moment and the way my luck has been of late I think I have a more serious problem). Oh yeah - no fluid leaks, either at the master or slave, but the original master cylinder that I swapped out did have a perished internal seal.

    Is there anything else that could be causing this? Really want to make sure I have eliminated everything else first. Any tips on replacing the clutch if thats what I need to do? Part of me would like to walk away from this and get someone else to do it, but I don't because 1 - then I won't have the satisfaction of knowing that I fixed it and 2 - can't really afford to pay someone else to do it. Really need to get the car back on the road though, it has been nearly three months for variuos reasons and I am running out of favours from friends running me about everywhere, let alone the missus and kids being sick of me being in the shed all the time.

    No mug on the tools but no tradesman either - pulling the gearbox or engine out to get at the clutch is well and truly taking me out of my comfort zone, so any tips or advice will be a great help.

    Cheers
    Brett

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Posts
    790
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1066 View Post
    The symptoms - cannot put the car (94 Defender 300tdi) into gear when the engine is running. Engine off, can select all gears regardless of whether I depress the clutch pedal or not. Can start it in gear, get a lurch and then car stalls if I take my foot off the clutch pedal.
    It would seem that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. My guess - and take it with a grain of salt, it's difficult to diagnose from the other side of a forum - is that you have a bent or very worn clutch fork. That still doesn't explain why it is stalling though - does it still stall when you select first and start?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    236
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Dervish - yep, it will stall if I put it into first and then start her up. I have a new clutch fork here, but was hoping it was something a little easier to replace than that - I figure if I have to replace the clutch fork, it would probably be wise to do the whole clutch while it is open as I don't know when it was last done.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
    Posts
    2,742
    Total Downloaded
    0
    On advice from here, I recently removed my engine to fix the slipping clutch. If it is the fork, and I don't how to id that, removing the engine is an easier job than doing it by shifting the gearbox. clutch forks on Defenders can punch through, so replace it with a heavy duty one
    Don.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melrose Park NSW
    Posts
    1,559
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Before you go pulling anything out, check the hose that goes from the metal line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. If this is worn, it can expand so all the pressure is lost to the slave which in turn does not disengage the clutch.

    I had this problem with my 200 Tdi and changed master and slave cylinder with the same issue. I changed the flexible hose section and no more probs.
    Chenz
    I do not wish to be a member of any club that would have me as a member

    Former Owner of The Red Terror - 1992 Defender 200Tdi
    Edjitmobile - 2008 130 Defender

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    236
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Chenz - yeah I am hoping it is this, I saw someone on one of the UK forums say that hose caused them the same problem. Will whip it off when I get home from work today, and take it down to Pirtek tomorrow to get a new one made up. Fingers crossed that will be the end of my problems......well, this particular problem anyway

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Burpengary, QLD
    Posts
    654
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Brett1066 View Post
    Can start it in gear, get a lurch and then car stalls if I take my foot off the clutch pedal.
    I'm comfused about this bit. So if you start the engine with the gearbox in gear and the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, it will keep running UNTIL you release the clutch, at which point it stalls?

    If so, this seems like the clutch is actually disengaging, otherwise it would just try to drag the car along while you try to start it in gear.

    Or will it stall immediately as soon as you cease engaging the starter motor?

    Before you worry about doing anything else with the hydraulic side of the clutch, have you removed the slave cylinder from the bell housing and watched the piston moving with somebody pushing the brake pedal for you? If this is fine, I'd leave that alone for now. Can you visually sight through the slave cylinder hole into the bell housing and spot the clutch pivot arm?

    Don't give up just yet, there's more knowledge in this forum that you can shake an armful of sticks at.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    236
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by TeamFA View Post
    I'm comfused about this bit. So if you start the engine with the gearbox in gear and the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, it will keep running UNTIL you release the clutch, at which point it stalls?

    If so, this seems like the clutch is actually disengaging, otherwise it would just try to drag the car along while you try to start it in gear.

    Or will it stall immediately as soon as you cease engaging the starter motor?

    Before you worry about doing anything else with the hydraulic side of the clutch, have you removed the slave cylinder from the bell housing and watched the piston moving with somebody pushing the brake pedal for you? If this is fine, I'd leave that alone for now. Can you visually sight through the slave cylinder hole into the bell housing and spot the clutch pivot arm?

    Don't give up just yet, there's more knowledge in this forum that you can shake an armful of sticks at.
    To be honest I'm not entirely sure whether it is stalling once the starter stops engaging or because I took my foot off the clutch. Not having much room in my shed I haven't been game to do this too often, and as my driveway slopes it is a right trying to push her back into the shed after testing anything.
    But I will check the piston is moving in the slave, I can (kinda) see into the bell housing, and from what I can tell the slave pushrod is still connected to the pivot arm - ie that little plastic clip seems to be in place still, though I can't see it. Will try and get some pics tonight when I get home

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Logan,Queensland
    Posts
    921
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Try transfer case in neutral whilst diagnosing.
    You'll soon here the gearbox turning if the clutch is not disengaging.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    With the slave cylinder removed, you should be able to see whether the fork is bent or punched through. May need a mirror and a small but powerful torch.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!