Thread: Traxide, spotlights and a genuine switch

I've had Hellas Rallye 4000 HID's for about 4 years. I have never experienced the flickering or only one starting.

They do take a couple of second to reach full power as they warm up when first turned on. Mine are also wired by the local auto sparky so they only can be used with the high beam.

not knowing the internals of the relays that you are using.... I assume(arrgh)..

You should be using the 12v from your battery to your driving light relay to power your driving lights, not the feed from the high beam.

Your blue wire should go to the S1 terminal on the headlight relay and the yellow wire should go to the S1 terminal on the driving light relay, remove the direct connection between these terminals as it is achieved when the switch is depressed, also the S terminals of the relays should be connected together.

Hi John and this diagram should help you.

Use the connects for the switch at the top of the diagram for the connections in your switch.

Thanks for all the input.

I am afraid it was a question of keep it simple.

The high beam was not working due to a blown fuse and the flickering/not lighting was due to having run the battery down testing the lights! I only had 8 volts across the relay. After a push start and a quick spin and it's all good.

The diagram I used was correct for the genuine LR switch which I believe is negative switching.

Cheers all.

Can someone please clarify

As from post 1 pin 4 is earth
pin 5 is the feed back from relay
appears from a manual and makes electrical sense

The diagram i got when I purchased a driving light switch from Mulgo has
pin 4 as feedback (signal to relay/aux )
pin 5 as earth
causes a reverse orange indication

Has any who has purchased a switch from Mulgo used pins 4/5 as per his instructions worked?