Thread: Defender wheel bearings

Are you running oil-lubed or grease in your bearings?

If greased, when was the last time you checked them. If not within the last 12months I'd pull them off now, clean/inspect and then either repack or replace depending on what they are like.

If oil lubed I'd probably just pull the drive flanges and see if a slight adjustment will take up the play (and that the wheels rotate smoothly with no sign of bearing issues) as well as carry some spares.
Always a good idea to carry spare wheel bearings anyway I reckon.

Steve

I imagine they are just the standard greased type.

and they haven't been looked at in quite some time...

I would be a bit of a pain to stop and sort them out but at the end of the day I will be pretty angry with myself if they did fail and I had to try and sort it out on the side of the road or even worse.... I required a tilt truck!

I guess Cairns is a pretty nice place to stay while I get it fixed.

Front wheel bearing play will also affect braking performance. You can check this by jacking up the wheel, grabbing at 12 & 6 then check for play by rocking in and out. If there is any get a helper to press the brakes, if the play goes away with the brake then it's certainly needed to adjust the wheel bearing to remove the play but will not necessarily require a new bearing. I would be sorting it out with some urgency, it's quite an easy field fix.

As mentioned above, it's always wise to carry spare bearings.

Originally Posted by inside

Front wheel bearing play will also affect braking performance. You can check this by jacking up the wheel, grabbing at 12 & 6 then check for play by rocking in and out. If there is any get a helper to press the brakes, if the play goes away with the brake then it's certainly needed to adjust the wheel bearing to remove the play but will not necessarily require a new bearing. I would be sorting it out with some urgency, it's quite an easy field fix.

As mentioned above, it's always wise to carry spare bearings.

yeah this is where the play is.
Will see what I can sort out come monday.

In that case, definitely a good idea to sort them out properly while you're in a place where its easy to get parts etc.

Make sure you replace the hub seals and lock washers while you are at it. I always use the older style RTC3511 seals and use a drive flange to seat them to the proper depth.
I'd also do the other 2 hubs at the same time, since you're already having to do a brake bleed etc anyway.

From memory you'll need a 13mm?? double-hex (12 point) socket for the front brake caliper bolts. Don't forget to put some loctite on them when you refit them as its a real PITA when you lose one on the road

Steve

if you can feel any movement in the wheel it's best to have a look at them. better to do them at home than on the side of the road. They do need adjustment during their life. I adjust mine maybe each year, about every 10,000 kms, as required. The late model defenders have preload sleeves inside I think, they are different from the older ones. But the old ones are easy, you have good advice already about them.

I found with my RRC that when the front wheel bearings are set up correctly as per the workshop manual with .004" end float, then there is perceptible wheel movement when cold, and none when hot. The local clutch and brake place machined the discs, and replaced the hubs with no play ("Did you set the bearings up correctly?" "Oh yes, of course."). When the hubs got hot they overheated something wicked and spewed oil.
Just thought that I'd make this observation and suggest that you check the book before you tighten them up snug.

Originally Posted by Phil HH

I found with my RRC that when the front wheel bearings are set up correctly as per the workshop manual with .004" end float, then there is perceptible wheel movement when cold, and none when hot. The local clutch and brake place machined the discs, and replaced the hubs with no play ("Did you set the bearings up correctly?" "Oh yes, of course."). When the hubs got hot they overheated something wicked and spewed oil.
Just thought that I'd make this observation and suggest that you check the book before you tighten them up snug.

The movement is new but I understand what you mean about having them done to the correct spec.

I'm considering getting the landy place in cairns to do it as I havent done wheel bearings myself before. Would hate to get it wrong and i dont have a hub socket or torque wrench anyway.

I just wonder how busy they are. I dont want to wait around too long...