Fixing the chassis rust on a relatively new rover is fairly easy - a good wire brush and a coat of decent paint will do. Don't worry too much about this.
ALL of my new defenders have had the paint on the rear cross member under the rear door fail within a few weeks. It starts going white and powdery and after a while the paint is gone and the rust starts. I waited for quite a few years before I got my 2003 TD5 fixed, covered under warranty. That's lasted very well. The later 2 I got repainted at the first service. They held up really well - the latest is 18 months old now.
I woudl recommend you look into rust proofing the inside of your chassis. A good squirt of a decent cavity wax will make you sleep better at night.
I assume by the plate you are referring to the flat rectangular sheet steel that is welded onto the bulk head and that the bonnet hinges mount to. This area and the other crevices around the body especially at the back are prone to this surface rust. I think it's because the paint does not get sprayed effectively into the cracks. I have had this on my last Silver Defender, the dealer fixed it and it never came back. Just needs cleaning up and a quick squirt of paint.
(The other thing to look at on the MY12 is that the rear body cappings, the ridged metal strips around the back tub, are allegedly not painted under neath. Now it takes a few years - but eventually they can rust from the inside out. The later ones and I'm not sure which year model are apparently zinc plated so less likely to rust. But all is not lost - Buy some good rust preventer in a can - I prefer Inox3, but I've heard penetrol is really good, and give it squirt from under neath into the crack - and on the inside into the capping area. That will keep the rust out.)
I think the dealer will fix those issues you've mentioned - they don't sound too serious. but worth looking into a good clean and rust proof just for your peace of mind.


 
				 
				
				
				
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					 Originally Posted by bonZa1
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