Thread: 12V IGN and Dimmer wires? Puma.

All from the Aux (lighter) socket..
Assuming the lighter is illuminated and dims also.

I would avoid cutting in elsewhere if possible.

I need a min 8A fused circuit, so surely the cig lighter would be at least 15A? I never use it, so can't recall if it's got an illumination ring around it.

Puma cigarette lighter circuit is fused at 20 amps and the illumination ring runs off that same circuit (I.e. only 2 wires run to the lighter socket).

What are you planning to use the dimmer wire for?

Opening the centre dash is easy, see my post in the defender section titled "easy diy relocation of the 12v outlet to somewhere more useful (puma 110)" - sorry on my phone and can't get the link working.

Originally Posted by FeatherWeightDriver

What are you planning to use the dimmer wire for?

Opening the centre dash is easy, see my post in the defender section titled "easy diy relocation of the 12v outlet to somewhere more useful (puma 110)" - sorry on my phone and can't get the link working.

I'm installing an ARB air compressor, so the Carling switch needs a 12V ignition and a dash illumination (not dimmer, my mistake) input for the globes.
I've looked up the Carling switch patent (Patent US5105059 - Environmentally sealed switch construction - Google Patents), but not much indication of what trickery happens inside. It looks just like you'd think- a simple switch that just supplies 12V to the relay in the compressor to activate the high current circuit. The dash illumination just serves for a pretty light when it's dark it seems. Since I'm not running air lockers, I'm only using the isolation switch to activate the compressor but have forward compatability if I ever decide I wish to go that way.

Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger

I'm installing an ARB air compressor, so the Carling switch needs a 12V ignition and a dash illumination (not dimmer, my mistake) input for the globes.
I've looked up the Carling switch patent (Patent US5105059 - Environmentally sealed switch construction - Google Patents), but not much indication of what trickery happens inside. It looks just like you'd think- a simple switch that just supplies 12V to the relay in the compressor to activate the high current circuit. The dash illumination just serves for a pretty light when it's dark it seems. Since I'm not running air lockers, I'm only using the isolation switch to activate the compressor but have forward compatability if I ever decide I wish to go that way.

You can easily pick up accessory power and illumination from the back of the stereo. Why do you need an 8 amp supply? A compressor would be much higher and should likely be run through a relay.

PS the amp rating of your accessory doesn't determine the size of the fuse - it determines the required cable size, which in turn determines the fuse size - it's not the same thing and fuses are there to protect wiring, not devices.

Originally Posted by n plus one

You can easily pick up accessory power and illumination from the back of the stereo. Why do you need an 8 amp supply? A compressor would be much higher and should likely be run through a relay.

PS the amp rating of your accessory doesn't determine the size of the fuse - it determines the required cable size, which in turn determines the fuse size - it's not the same thing and fuses are there to protect wiring, not devices.

The compressor I'm using has an internal relay, and it's own power source wired directly to the battery (with twin 40A fuses). It's beefy wiring running to it too.
Not sure why they recommend the 8A fused circuit for the switch, I believe its only function is to power the coil in the relay when activated so it can pull in the high current side of the circuit.

As for the device, its rated to draw up to 50A under heavy load, so there is probably (I hope!) a bit of wiggle room in the combo of wiring and fuses that they've engineered into the package.

8a would be for remote control ( stop/start)

I run the same compressor using the stereo supply to run the relay - works perfectly.