Reply With Quotethe previous owner of my rig relocated the rear flaps to the rear cross member.......
i'm in the process of putting them back to the normal position
Master
Moving / changing rear mud flaps on a 110?
Hi all,
I'm looking to move my rear mudflaps from the factory position to avoid the (admittedly unlikely) situation where lots of force on the mudflap results in damaging the rear quarter panel.
Some hunting in the ADRs (see 42.12.2 in http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2011C00102 ) seems to indicate I can move the mudflap as far back as I want, as long as they end no more than 300mm from the ground and cover above the 30 degree plane from the bottom of the tyre.
I have rear bumperettes on, so I was looking to mount off them.
Has anyone else done this and/or been able to confirm this is ok to do per the ADRs?
As an aside - it looks to me that front mudflaps are REQUIRED by the ADRs for 110s as they are a class NA vehicle - maybe I should ask Land Rover to refund the optional extra charge...On the other hand, even with them on the side of the truck gets filthy whenever I even smell mud, let alone drive on it, so I can't see how people drive without them.
Thanks in advance
FWD
Swaggie
the previous owner of my rig relocated the rear flaps to the rear cross member.......
i'm in the process of putting them back to the normal position
Master
Ah interesting - why are you moving them back?Originally Posted by weeds
The other thing I thought of doing was re-enforcing the quarter panel with aluminium angle along the bottom edge, which is certainly quicker, easier and simpler...
Master
SubscriberYes Agree - Mine has aluminium angle iron now. All of my Defenders have had that panel fatigue and crack so the mudflap falls off, really seems odd that Land Rover does not put a brace in there from the factory. The warranty fix from Land Rover is to move the mudflap forward a little and put a new tek screw in.
Master
SupporterOne more vote for the aluminium angle option. I reinforced the bottom lip of the quarter panel with a length of angle using rivets. Then, using the existing hole, added a new hole through the angle. Has worked great with no fatigue to the panel.
TopicToaster
SubscriberOn the County, I made up a support out of 25mm RHS and some flat plate and bolted it to the chassis through an existing existing hole (think originally it might have been the tie down bracket point). I made a bit of a lip on the bracket that hooks under the chassis rail to stop it rotating. Attached some insertion rubber for a mudflap and all is good!
Not attached to the panel at all, so if it does happen to take a hit its just going to bend away without damaging anything.
Only one bolt to undo if I need to take it off for any reason.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
Swaggie
The flaps are just conveyor belt that does not extend past the body therefore not covering the tyres 100%
Be aware that if you brace your mud flap mounts it will likely mean that you'll fold the rear panel work if you snag a flap while off road...ask me how I know
Fossicker
Sorry, double post. Can a Mod please delete this?
Fossicker
This might be worth a look:
Land Rover Defender 110 Quick Release Rear Mud Flap Mounting Kit and Shields, Stepped Tub, GL103110
It isn't the cheapest solution, but it appears that it would achieve what you want and it looks very neat. It would also help to keep mud and dirt out of your rear cross member.
I recently bought the Gwyn Lewis breather kit and although I daresay it's comprised of bits sourced from third parties, it all appears to be quality stuff. I intend to get the shields for the front and rear wheel wells as well.
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks