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Thread: Moving / changing rear mud flaps on a 110?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Thanks all for the input - I'm glad I'm not the only one obsessing about such things

    Quote Originally Posted by n plus one View Post
    Be aware that if you brace your mud flap mounts it will likely mean that you'll fold the rear panel work if you snag a flap while off road...ask me how I know
    Yeah that's what I am trying to avoid.

    Stock mounts will do that anyway, so I figure any kind of re-enforcement has to be better than nothing, although SteveG's idea sounds more like the outcome I am after.

    Any chance you can post a picture of your setup SteveG?

  2. #12
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by FeatherWeightDriver View Post
    Thanks all for the input - I'm glad I'm not the only one obsessing about such things



    Yeah that's what I am trying to avoid.

    Stock mounts will do that anyway, so I figure any kind of re-enforcement has to be better than nothing, although SteveG's idea sounds more like the outcome I am after.

    Any chance you can post a picture of your setup SteveG?
    The stock mounts are highly unlikely to crease the entire rear panel up to the fuel filler before they fail...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Sunshine Coast
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    My driver's side flap support has taken some force at some point and has bent towards the wheel. I must've been reversing up a step and had the flap caught between the tyre and a hard place - that's the only way I can imagine it is susceptible to damage anyway. It bent the creased under surface of the side panel, but not the part you can see. If it was reinforced I imagine it would've done more damage; just my 2c.

  4. #14
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    Oct 2008
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    I guess one way you might reduce the damage to the 1/4 panel would be to mount the mudflap frame to the ally panel/brace using a strip of rubber. Or alternatively on the older mudflaps which used to be bolted to the mudflap frame you could try cutting exit slots on the mudflap itself so that if it does get snagged it will slide out of the three bolts holding it.

    For me the damage was always due to fatigue cracking of the panel itself allowing the mud flap, and teck screw, and a good chunk of my rear quater panel to fly free.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    The 3mm allly checker plate attached to the rear panels was folded in, at the base, for the flap bracket to attach to instead of just the wimpy sheet metal. Gives me good bracing and additional rear panel protection.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Perth
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    I read this post the other day and didnt give it much thought until today where I went for a play and did mundaring to york power line track only to get about 15min in and ripped my passenger side off the guard.

    Could hear something dragging got out to find a bent up bracket and ripped the bolt clean out not a great design mr land rover haha im with others think if It was beefed up on the guard it would have done more damage. Ill go into work tomorrow throw it on the pit and make something up thinking maybe an A-bracket set up to the chassis rail but will know more once I have a propper look.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Heathcote (in "The Shire")
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    Both of mine were pulled off by the weight of black mud along the Murray
    At least I still have them.


    Martyn

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Narre Warren South
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrytheRain View Post

    I recently bought the Gwyn Lewis breather kit and although I daresay it's comprised of bits sourced from third parties, it all appears to be quality stuff.
    As you suggest, parts for breathers are available from third parties http://www.aulro.com/afvb/driveline-...ather-kit.html

    I can supply the multi-way connectors. The kit listed uses a pneumatic silencer at the end but you could put a bend in the tube if you can get the tube to a high enough temperature.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Ourimbah
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    Not sure about ADRs but I took the extreme option;

    My mudflaps are mounted to the old front bumper which is now bolted to the back.

  10. #20
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    Sep 2013
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    toowoomba
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    You wouldn't believe it but after reading this thread I was out playing in some washouts and this happened. This is with stock standard land rover mudflaps and brackets. So now I'm gonna get rear corner chequer plate and relocate the mudflaps to the rear crossmember, might even look at some rear bumperettes




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