Coolant overheat will cause low power. With you saying it happens with hard work, this is a probable cause. Lots of things can cause over heating, check simple things first, don't forget to check thermo fan operation.
How time goes fast when you are having fun
Just looked at my last log in and wow there has been lots of stuff I have missed.
I put up a post re turbo hoses collapsing and starving the engine of air with my puma a few months ago and what do you know, might be happening again.....BUGGER.
Got to pull the intercooler hoses off and have a look. Nearest dealer is 3 hours away. not that I trust them much going on previous experience. (vehicle went back twice in 2 days, tilt tray 3 hrs each way each time)
Only comes on with hard work, ie: overtaking up an incline etc.
Drop battery power and fault resets. Normal driving all is good, just don't push to hard.
ideas.
Cheers.
Oh yeah, The landy wave is definately the go in Narooma
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						Coolant overheat will cause low power. With you saying it happens with hard work, this is a probable cause. Lots of things can cause over heating, check simple things first, don't forget to check thermo fan operation.
Interesting development.
Fault resets its-self if car left off for extended period - like an hour.
Car was cold when fault originally appeared.
Gone now, might have to be the old 'if its noisy, just turn up the radio a bit more' routine....lol
Your discussion about the intercooler hoses is confusing. Are you saying it's the problem or that was a side discussion? Either way, cough up the cash and buy silicon hoses and be done with that problem.
Another thought, a sticking EGR can cause a drop in power and will show up as an engine light.
MLD
Sorry bout that, This problem seems to be the same issue, the original fault was a delaminated intercooler hose, starving the turbo (and engine) of air.
immediate limp mode
I just mentioned to my brother this morning about investing in silicone hoses, not sure what that would do for warranty though?
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						SubscriberTo have a hope of working out what is wrong you really need to get the fault code's read from the ECU. My suggestion is it would be worth investing in one of those Nanocom like units so that you are not held ransom to a useless remote dealer.
When my Intercooler hose blew (twice now) the first symptom was a bit of extra induction noise, it was hissing a little under full throttle, sounded quite cool really.... Then after a while limp mode with Engine light, which reset itself after powering down, but returned under load the next time I drove it. I could drive it gently after powering down, but as soon as I hammered it (and could hear that nice induction sound) it would conk into limp mode. In my case the Intercooler hose had rubbed through on the alternator pulley, not much of a hole, perhaps 2mm... But enough to lose pressure and cause the limp mode.
It's since gone back to have the recall done to it (it's a 2.2) but has come back with an annoying whistling sound which I suspect is a poorly fitted intercooler hose leaking a little. (It's not gone into limp yet - but when it does - rest assured it's going to get a nice chauffeur driven ride back to the dealer on a truck, and I'll ask them to deliver it back to me again...)
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						SubscriberBut when it goes into limp mode in overheat conditions it only stays there for a brief moment until it's not overheating any more and then goes back to full power, only to do it again when it gets back into overhear. Also during this the temp gauge flicks into the red. (Overheating is not a sticky limp mode, at least I don't think it is)
As thought - loose turbo/intercooler hoses.
Telltale smear of oil near join/hose clamp, tightened all hose clamps, gone for a blat up some pretty steep hills under load and all seems to be good.
Well fault light not coming on anyway.
Here's hoping
cheers for the ideas fellas
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						SupporterMy 2.2 130 has had two 700km round trips on a flatbed to get the turbo hose sorted under warranty after hose failure and limp mode. The latest upgrade with the bracket on the alternator has been a solution. The down side was the air filter box got slightly damaged during the warranty work. Looks like the box has been forced past an AC line that should have been removed according to WS manual. This requires recovering and recharging the AC gas, so I think they took the shortcut and damaged the lip of the filter box
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