Thread: Routing power from battery box to Ex-Box / cabin

I recently did a secondary fuse and switch system. I remade the centre console with a tray underneath to hold the fuses relays etc. bit like your ex box will do presumably?
I took power, positive and negative, from the battery box, out through the same hole the existing lines go, then I drilled a big hole just inboard of the back of the seat rail to bring the power up to. It then splits up, one onto a 'hot' bus bar, the other through a relay switched by the accessories key position onto another bus bar. You can get a through fitting from places like jaycar, that once you feed all your wires through, you can screw down and an orifice closes around them. Sorry I don't have any photos of what I did prior to putting the box on top of it all.
What I would suggest is consider what you might want in the future and make provisions for those things at the same time, easier to do it once rather than graft new bits on down the track.

I have drilled holes in the side and rear wall of the battery compartment, painted the raw edge and then used grommets that are a tight fit for the cable being used. All my cables run inside split tube.

To access my custom made 'under cubby box' and storage where I have my additional fuse box, I ran 6 B&S cable through the steel plate directly under the cubby box using the same hole and grommet method from the battery compartment.

Mick

cheers, I've noticed the standard grommet on the 'inboard' side of the batt box, but was not sure how to get the power back into the cab from the trans tunnel while still allowing full range of motion the seat rails etc. I'm guessing the top of the trans tunnel (under cubby box) is just riveted or screwed on?

I haven't yet got an ex box, but that kind of functionality is what I'm after.
With all my previous cars, I generally run a length of 6 or 8 core wire between the engine bay and other areas when I have it apart, so that I've got wires ready to go when needed. Making the connections are easy, the biggest time killer is routing a new wire each time (and it often looks messy).

The plate under the cubby is held with 4 screws. You don't reuse it using the exbox, here is the fitting instructions from Mulgo's site, if that's what your going to use as you mention it in your original post. If not, use some dynamat or similar on the bottom of the tranny cover plate while you have it out.
[ame]http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/product-attachments/fi-exbox-22-lr-1.pdf[/ame]

Mick

Unlike earlier Defenders, the cabling on a Puma runs in plastic tubes attached to the outside of the chassis.

Extra cabling circuits can easily be run inside tubing (see split tube in Crackas post), Run the same path as existing cables/tubes to keep it neat.
To get through the battery box I have been using cable glands rather than grommets. This gives much better protection from chaffing through and is water and dustproof (IP66). Dont forget to put a fuse in your new cabling as close to the battery as possible

Originally Posted by Grappler

Unlike earlier Defenders, the cabling on a Puma runs in plastic tubes attached to the outside of the chassis.

Extra cabling circuits can easily be run inside tubing (see split tube in Crackas post), Run the same path as existing cables/tubes to keep it neat.
To get through the battery box I have been using cable glands rather than grommets. This gives much better protection from chaffing through and is water and dustproof (IP66). Dont forget to put a fuse in your new cabling as close to the battery as possible

Good idea, off to a Marine shop to buy some glands
I like marine shops, i think their stuff is slightly better than car shops

There are spare gromits in the battery box and you can go next to other cables.

There is a spare spot in the large gromit in the bottom of the ex box.

Heat shrinking is a good idea. All my new cabling is in heat shrink and split conduit. Repairs are in electrical tape as a minimum.