Thread: antirusting door frames

I'd suggest the first part is to ensure the door drains are working. I have an issue with one of my rear doors that seems to hold water - and one of the drains is blocked - not sure why yet but I'll need to do some probing to find out.

You can reduce to some degree the water getting in to the door by making sure the rubber window seal at the bottom of the glass is sitting flush and the ends are sealed with a suitable sealant. It won't stop all water but does cut if down a bit if this seal is working.

As to the actual rust proofing I have a personal preference for a light rust proofing oil such as INOX. I like this because it soaks into all of the seems. I spray my doors through the drain holes every year. And throughout summer I can see that INOX seeping out of the door frame. I think it does a good job , because even the door that holds water, that water is not red. IT's still crystal clear when I drained it out. On one of my series land rovers - when I had a similar issue - before I started using INOX, the water came out like red mud.

Arguably a better option would be a heavy wax like Tectyl 506. I'm sure that would be good too - but it does tend to build up heavily - so you have to careful when spraying it to not block drain holes etc. I did use Tectyl on my chassis and that seems to work well.

So my recommendation is to go to a yearly dose of INOX. I use it throughout the bulkhead (Via the wiper gromments, door hinges and the small trim retaining screws). Also the rear tub capping - spraying upwards inside and out. And the door frames through the drain holes, and hinge bolt/door lock stricker.

Tectyl dries and then cracks from movement and allows moisture into seams, im a big inox fan but the lanox[inox with lanolin] only has 3% lanolin so is not that great long term, for internal cavities such as doors i buy "Enviro Gold" liquid lanolin as it likes to creep and keep creeping but is to sticky to use on the outside of chassis and floor etc[thats where i use inox]
Richard

I've heard that a mix of fish oil and automatic transmission fluid can work for preventing rust. The ATF helps it work into cracks via capillary action.
If its already rusty, then It's a whole different story.

I am repairing rust and repainting the door frames where necessary. Including cleaning out drain holes.
I have used Inox and lanox for many years, but never considered as a longer term rust preventative.
The Enviro Gold looks interesting,
Thanks for the suggestions.

I've drilled small holes in the top & bottom of the frames. I spray inside and in between skin and frame with stuff called 'corrosion block'. It penetrates and coats with an oil layer that prevents or limits moisture & air combining to corrode skin or frame. Linox & other products do something similar. Anything, even wd40 is better protection than nothing.

I do a coat every 6 to 12 mths. I also unscrew the top hinge for the front door from the fire wall and spray inside the a pillar and inside the upper firewall. Mines galled but just in case gal didn't get in somewhere.