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Thread: Thermostat Housing Plug

  1. #1
    jarrensc Guest

    Thermostat Housing Plug

    Hi all, as a fresh member to this forum I thought I would say a quick hello, then follow with dumping my problem/s into the hands of those with much more wisdom then me!

    Brother just bought a 94 tdi 300 defender and we were getting some maybe phantom over heating problems when then dropped down under about 2k revs. So we decided that the first problem to address would be the coolant system.

    After an entire day of screwing things up we had it all back together with a new radiator, hoses, thermostat all that jazz. Only problem was that the previous owner had chewed the thermostat housing plug up so bad that the socket/wrench just slipped off.

    So we sorta ignored it and hoped it wouldnt matter for now. Once we had the fluids put in as best as possible we started it up and the temp from the start was on the off the scales hot. Ran it for about 5 minutes or more, the other hoses all started heating up. The top? hose wasn't hot at all so i'm guessing the thermostat hadn't opened yet? But at the point we chickened out and turned it off cause we are a bit scared of Diesels as we have never had one before (Runaway diesel??? )

    So heres my question if you did keep reading all of that. Do I just keep it running and hope the thermostat opens and the sender will start, you know sending and alls good in the world. Or do I need to get that buggered plug out?

  2. #2
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    That is well and truly sad looking.
    If you cant get it out then there is a small rubber hose connected to the left of the thermostat housing.
    Disconnect the rubber hose and remove the plug from the top of the radiator.
    At the other end of the small hose is a 3 way fitting.
    Remove the fitting and ensure you can blow air through it in all directions and then refit.
    This fitting helps remove air from the system.
    Fill the header tank until fluid comes out of the top of the radiator then put the bung in.
    Keep filling until fluid comes out where the small hose connects.
    Put the small hose back on.


    Massaging the bottom radiator hose while filling will help.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  3. #3
    Judo's Avatar
    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    I recommend persevering with the top bung. It definitely sounds like an air lock.

    It's one of those jobs that is incredibly tedious but really needs doing.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  4. #4
    jarrensc Guest
    Did what you said jboot51 and the hose that went to the thermostat housing was clogged with some grey stuff



    Put in a temp house just to see if I could get it all working



    Started it up and same thing temp gauge went all the way to hot even when it was dead cold. The new hose did let the system air out a bit i was pumping the hoses and quite a bit came out. Stopped and started the car a few times till that new hose didnt fill up with air but still no change to the sender, still reading high and the thermostat didnt seem to open cause the top hose wasnt getting hot nor the radiator.

    Whats the chance of it being a faulty thermostat ? And also the sender? With the wire that goes to the sender disconnected it reads cold on start. With the wire connected to the old sender but just the sender sitting on the block ( Not bolted in)

  5. #5
    jarrensc Guest
    If that hose is moving the coolant fine then is there any point trying to get that brass plug out?

  6. #6
    Judo's Avatar
    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    How long did it take for the temp gauge to go up to hot? If coolant is flowing correctly but the thermostat is closed you could idle it forever and not get the gauge to read hot. You need load on the engine to warm it up.

    If it is shooting up to hot very quickly, then you either have a faulty sender/gauge or the coolant is not flowing correctly. Eg. Air lock still.

    Could the heater core / pipework be blocked restricting flow? Eg. more grey stuff?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  7. #7
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    with the engine running, even from dead cold, there should be coolant flowing through that new hose you put on, maybe pick the revs up a little and any air will make its way to the header tank.


    The 3 way connector and the other 2 hoses need to be clean aswell


    It takes a good 10 minutes at say 2000 rpm to open the thermostat on a 300 tdi.


    Faulty sender would be my guess


    You can take the thermostat out and have a look, no gaskets required as it has a rubber sealing ring.
    Test it by putting it in boiling water.


    You've got the clear expansion tank, on mine from cold, with a few revs, the coolant flows up from the little hose and hits the roof of the header tank.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  8. #8
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    That grey stuff looks ugly-some sort of stop leak maybe???
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #9
    jarrensc Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    How long did it take for the temp gauge to go up to hot?
    The gauge hits its hottest point (Off the charts) the second you turn the key. Might put the old sender back in tomorrow run it for 10 minutes and see how we go.

  10. #10
    jarrensc Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    with the engine running, even from dead cold, there should be coolant flowing through that new hose you put on, maybe pick the revs up a little and any air will make its way to the header tank.


    The 3 way connector and the other 2 hoses need to be clean aswell


    It takes a good 10 minutes at say 2000 rpm to open the thermostat on a 300 tdi.


    Faulty sender would be my guess


    You can take the thermostat out and have a look, no gaskets required as it has a rubber sealing ring.
    Test it by putting it in boiling water.


    You've got the clear expansion tank, on mine from cold, with a few revs, the coolant flows up from the little hose and hits the roof of the header tank.
    Yeah I am probably now getting about that much coolant movement in the header tank. Think i will let it run a bit longer than I have, see if I can get a change.

    Been comparing the heat up time to a nissan pathfinder which in about 5 minutes it would of started opening and showing up on the temp gauge.

    Will definitely be testing the thermostat and hopefully with the old sender back in I will see some results.

    Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

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