Thread: Rear Salisbury Diff Noise

Diff pinion bearing preload is critical. You need to do it up at the exact same place as before. It's a bit of an issue if you've done it up too far...

Originally Posted by inside

Diff pinion bearing preload is critical. You need to do it up at the exact same place as before. It's a bit of an issue if you've done it up too far...

As far as I'm aware I did it back to the correct position with the correct amount of thread showing.

If it has crushed the tube more than it should have is it an expensive fix? Can I do it myself from the pinion end of the diff or does the casing have to come off?

Thanks

G'day David, It does sound like it may be a bit tighter now than before you replaced the seal. As said by inside it is important to have the flange nut in the same position (same number of complete turns and paint mark lined up if you put one on). With your hand feel how tight the flange is to turn. You should be able to move it a slight bit before it contacts the crownwheel. It should be able to be easily moved and no lateral or linear slop in the bearings. If it feels a bit tight back it off a little (say 1/2 turn) and feel it again. If it feels better take it for a spin and check for noise again. It is normal for these diffs to run fairly hot but the whirring noise indicates the bearings may be tighter than before so it may be advisable to do this sooner rather than later. Cheers

Just asking.....did u refill the oil??
What I do when fitting new pinion oil seals is centre punch the nut, flange and pinion in the same spot and line them up again when tightening the nut. Hasnt failed me yet. Tip was from my late father, a firstclass machinist. He was a great mechanic and taught me all i know.

Cheers Rod

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Originally Posted by 67hardtop

Just asking.....did u refill the oil??
What I do when fitting new pinion oil seals is centre punch the nut, flange and pinion in the same spot and line them up again when tightening the nut. Hasnt failed me yet. Tip was from my late father, a firstclass machinist. He was a great mechanic and taught me all i know.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app

Yeah, I topped up the oil after and I also lined up the flange, nut and pinion in the same place (didn't centre punch because there was an old one already there in what appeared to be the wrong spot, it didn't line up with the other punch) and the noise has started.

I'll back it off a bit in the morning and have a feel around.

Thanks for the help guys!

Hasn't there been a sleave and shim developed to replace that crush tube?
.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hasn't there been a sleave and shim developed to replace that crush tube?
.

That's what I did.

When I've undone the pinion nut - I used a long breaker bar and a metal pole on that. I wondered about using an impact driver on that nut - as I think all of the impact gets transferred to the crown wheel and pinion. And with an impact driver that can be quite a lot of shock loading. Could that have fractured some teeth?