After some advice. My high level brake light is not working and doesn't seem to have power at the bulb fitting.
The system appears to use the demister's glass mounted circuitry, or am I missing something here? I checked all the fuses, the bulb is fine (even replaced it to check) and the normal brake lights work fine.
Any suggestions?
Defenders worked fine for many years without them, but I can just see someone running into the car's rear and claiming the brake light never came on.
I was getting to the conclusion that running new cables to be the only real option. I was however thinking in the "way over the top" approach of drilling and gromitting a hole in the frame and fish-taping it down into the main door cavity.
Your approach works as well with a hell of a lot less work!
I had the same issue with my 2013. I wasn't aware the light was not working (suppose I never see it from behind), but when the vehicle went in for it's service, LR noticed it and soldered the break (as per roley18).
As it was under warranty, they ordered a new rear window. When the new window arrived, dropped the vehicle off, they fitted the new window and had it tinted as well!
Bit of a follow up... BTW thanks for all the replies guys!
I appear to have a deeper seated problem. Did the connect the direct wire fix this afternoon, and still no joy. Checked the bulb on a battery pack and its fine. I don't own a multimeter, so I'm having SWMBO step on the brake pedal to check results...
Both brake lights work and I traced the green and purple positive wire between the RHS brake light to the positive feed for the window fitted circuit and can't spot any obvious damage.
Ran out of daylight, but I'm starting to suspect the actual blue plastic bulb holder contraption. I'll try again tomorrow with the bulb directly connected to the two terminals both at the bottom of the window and through the two at high level.
Splashed on quite a basic multimeter and its already paid for itself! I'm a self confessed electrophobe and auto electrics is something I don't care to dabble with, but I should have done this years ago...
Ended up using Tomo's fix with some new wiring nicely tucked away behind the window rubber. The problem turned out to be as per your first suggestion (break somewhere in the window mount circuit) and now has some proper automotive 10A wire to prevent the problem re-occuring.
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