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Thread: FYRLYTs Vs td5 with DL+HWUK

  1. #1
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    FYRLYTs Vs td5 with DL+HWUK

    G'day team,

    I recently completed a heap of work to my td5 130 including fitting the Defender Driving light and Headlight wiring upgrade kit from Daves Interesting Things and a set of 12V 150W FYRLYTs.

    The recommended loom for the FYRLYTS was somewhat different to the Driving Light loom in the kit, but only so far as the size of the wire and that the Relay in the recommended loom is "HD" (still only got 30amp fuses though, like the one supplied to me).

    So I went for some 8mm cable, whacked that on, hooked them up and drove from Darwin to Sydney through queensland.

    My questions:

    FYRLYT says for optimal performance you should get 13.8V at the light, Im getting 13.6V at the light side of the relay at idle. Should/can I get the 13.8 at the light? (the performance is extraordinary already but I guess I should aim for manufacturers specs), and

    When I switch them on sometimes theres a brief delay where my headlights and driving lights go black then shine into life, could my alternator be ****ting itself? and

    is the relay supplied in the kit Ive bought up to the job or should I get a different one?

    thanks in advance.

    BTW, not to rubbish any other driving lights but OMG these things are bright, if you want an amazing light you can drive behind for hours without warm up/ night blindness and with huge range and spread. Get these lights theyre bloody amazing.
    ****ed all over my mates Narva Extremes + Light bar, outshone a number of truckies out there in western QLD with 4 HID spotties on the front.

  2. #2
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    Firstly, yes, the Fyrlyts are awesome.

    If you are impressed with those, as I am, just wait to see their new Nemesis.

    Now, I am guessing you have used just one relay for both the lights. Nothing wrong with this, however, I used one relay per light. Plus each side has a separate fuse.

    Might pay to put another relay in, and see if that helps.

  3. #3
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    Thats bloody smart.

    What relays are you using?

  4. #4
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    I used 2 x 30 amp fused relays from Jaycar.

    CAT. NO. SY4077

    With the fuse built in, it makes wiring easy.

  5. #5
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    Hi Wicks and if you have wired one driving light to each of the dual relays then all should be fine.

    As to the voltage, at 0.2v below the recommended voltage is fine, but next time you test the voltage, have someone rev the engine a bit.

    Because of the high current draw, your alternator might be unable to meet the total current demand at idle.

    This is not a problem and is quite common. Again just rev the motor up a bit and the alternator will then be able to supply all the power needed, at a higher voltage.

    As to the relays themselves, these are Japanese made NEW ERA and are about the the best there is for this sort of work.

  6. #6
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    My bad.

    I didn't realise that Tim had supplied duel relays, which, in effect, achieves exactly the same as using 2 single pole relays. It is just that you have them all in the one neat package.

    So, as Tim suggested, check the voltage again with the engine revving a bit, and I think you will find all is good.

  7. #7
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    I have a set of FYRLYTS - I suppose I'd better get around to mounting them some time.

    Gotta get the winch in first though...
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  8. #8
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    Yes I will be getting a set once I return from Canada
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Wicks and if you have wired one driving light to each of the dual relays then all should be fine.

    As to the voltage, at 0.2v below the recommended voltage is fine, but next time you test the voltage, have someone rev the engine a bit.

    Because of the high current draw, your alternator might be unable to meet the total current demand at idle.

    This is not a problem and is quite common. Again just rev the motor up a bit and the alternator will then be able to supply all the power needed, at a higher voltage.

    As to the relays themselves, these are Japanese made NEW ERA and are about the the best there is for this sort of work.
    I have both of them going to one of the relays and the headlights off the other. Just to confirm, I should have one headlight and one driving light coming from each of the relays?

    Your help is much appreciated mate

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